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Get an actual beaker that is graduated and has the beaker shape. An open top cylindrical shaped container may allow evaporation and skew your results. Even better would be a beaker with a stopper and small glass tube just to vent it. Yeah, I know I am being ****.My wife already warned me about this.
Seriously though, I do have about 1-1/2 qts. of Mopar fluid on the shelf. I have about 3 k to go before I get the next drain and refill.
I will get a measuring cup/beaker ordered up to try this out. Oh yeah, and the wife is like, "What do you want to do that for?" I almost said, "Because I have a *****.", but held my tongue....lol
On your 2500. And towing doesn’t go over 175-180. Our temps are 185-190 regular unloaded. Also lower temps are better at putting power to the ground because the fluid isn’t thinned out as much. Lower temps also help prevent clutches from burning under stress. Also they used to run the transmission in your truck at lower temps before they started trying to get every mpg possible. That’s why everything has heaters built in now.If you live in Florida fine, but lowering the temp will do more damage than leaving it higher. The transmission is designed to run at a higher temp. I tow up to 11,000 on my 2500 interstate driving in summer and my temps don’t get over 175 - 180 tops.
If you live in Florida fine, but lowering the temp will do more damage than leaving it higher. The transmission is designed to run at a higher temp. I tow up to 11,000 on my 2500 interstate driving in summer and my temps don’t get over 175 - 180 tops.
Being designed to run hot is obvious. But it's in the name of efficiency (.001% nitpicky margins) and ultimate longevity isn't the name of the game. 100ºF isn't what I want my trans to run at, but I don't feel it's bad for it on cold days. I'm hoping to see ~130 typical and maybe 150 or so loaded.
At the end of the day, I made this part for me and for the time being I'm entertained by making extras, having civil discussion about it and selling some to those interested. Clearly at $30 it's not a get rich scheme. FWIW, it costs me $4 to ship one, $1 for the spring, ~$1.50 in material plus my time.
Back on topic, I currently have 7 unspoken for and ready to ship. Beyond that, I'll have to buy more springs to continue which is no big deal if there is interest. Or perhaps some other manufacturer would be interested in making it...
I’m to happy with the outcome to pull it apart and change it. Being in south Florida I don’t see much cold weather. If it’s really a huge request to install it I will. In my head I think keeping the heater on the side even with the oil bypassed with caulks plug will still keep temps up since the heater will still warm the metal of the unit from the hot coolant flow and thus heat the oil slightly. Not much since the oil doesn’t stay in the unit for long but still.I kind of wonder what the temp differances might be,if any,between the way CrazyKid and i did the bypass mod,and your thermostat bypass.On paper CrazyKid and i should run cooler,as theoritically there should be more fluid flow to the tranny cooler,plus we've lost one insulating factor with the heat exchanger not blocking airflow to the side of the fluid router.
It's one thing that i've wondered . Crazy Kid i think you should take Caulk up on his offer of a free one,and pop it in,to see if there is any temp differance between full flow,and a slightly restricted flow to the cooler
I'd buy one,but by the time it's sitting on my doorstep,it'd be probably double the cost,aarrgghh,lol.There's times it sucks being a Canuck,lol
I don't think the ports in the thermal unit are large enough to outflow the cavity in the thermostat housing with the stock parts fully open, much less with my valve. Purely observational, but I'm confident.
I'd also suspect that by removing the coolant flow completely would reduce temps a little more, but likely very minor. The coolant would still be heating up the area, but there isn't much surface area for heat transfer without the trans fluid going into the heat exchanger.
Lol. The less I have to get under there the better. I don’t think caulks plug is really much of a restriction. The cavity is very large and by the looks of it caulks plug is not very large.Yea i'm not sure what the temp differances would be,between unrestricted flow and slightly restricted flow to the cooler.It'd be easy enough to test though,if we can talk Khristopher into taking you up on the offer of a free plug,lol
For anyone interested, I have some made up and ready to go out. $30 shipped. IMO this is a better option than the Revmax kit and even though they claim the stock cap is prone to breakage so they've made the cap brass, I can't imagine the cap ever breaking as with my part there is less spring pressure on the cap.
PM for info please.
A guy I work with has a 2010 with the RFE trans, says his levels out around 130. Fwiw.
Shifts feel totally normal. I've noticed since I got the truck that is pretty firm for the first few shifts then smooth as butter. Still does the same now.
I watch my gauges like I'm expecting something to blow up, just how I am. I'll continue to monitor as I drive more and certainly report back.