Cylinder Misfire Led to Full Cam/MDS Delete Build + Suspension & Audio Overhaul

[4d6n2]

What’s up yall — I’ve got a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7 HEMI with 144k miles, and I figured it was finally time to post up after diving deep into a full-on performance and refresh build.

It started a couple months ago when I got a check engine light. The truck started running rough, struggling to accelerate, and the fuel economy tanked. It idled rough at lights. I was a few hours from home and ended up having to drive it back about 3 hours, but luckily there were no loud knocks or smoke. Hopefully I didn’t do much damage.

The codes pointed to cylinder 3 misfire, random misfires, and oil pressure. So I got to work:

• All 8 fuel injectors
• All 16 spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX)
• New coil packs
• Cleaned the MAF sensor
• Replaced the oil pressure sensor
• Thoroughly cleaned my Vararam air filter (I wash it monthly — it gets dirty fast)

Even after all that, the misfire came back. Research and common HEMI woes pointed straight to the usual suspect: cam and lifters. So I said screw it — let’s go all in and do it right.

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Current Mods Before This Build:​

• Vararam True Ram Air Intake w/ 90mm throttle body
• Borla Exhaust
• PowerStop Z36 K2164-36 Truck & Tow Brake Kit
• 2” Front End Leveling Spacers
• Clifford Remote Start Alarm System (being reinstalled properly)

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Engine Build (All Parts On Hand):​

• Texas Speed Stage 1 Cam – 214/222 .582/.582 112+3
• TSP MDS Delete Kit
  • Hellcat Lifters
  • Mahle Head Gaskets
  • TSP Head Bolts
  • MDS Plugs
  • VVT & Balancer Bolts
• TSP Valve Spring Kit w/ PAC 1275X Beehive Springs
• Melling High Volume Oil Pump
• Mopar Timing Chain, Tensioner, and Crank Sprocket
• Melling Timing Damper
• New Crank Bolt and Cam Bolt
• TSP Long Tube Headers (on backorder)
  • Catted Y-Pipe
  • O2 Extensions
  • Header Bolts & Exhaust Gaskets
• MAHLE Intake, PCV, and Throttle Body Gaskets
• Gates Heavy Duty Serpentine Belt
• ACDelco Belt Tensioner
• 180° Thermostat + New Radiator Cap
• Melling Water Pump
• Upper/Lower Radiator Hoses
• Mopar Heater Core Hoses
• Royal Purple HMX High Mileage 5W-20 (3 oil changes’ worth)
• Royal Purple Oil Filters x3
• Valvoline HOAT Coolant (4 gallons)
• Lucas Zinc Break-In Additive + Assembly Lube

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Suspension Refresh:​

• KYB Truck-Plus Front Strut Assemblies
• FVP Sway Bar Links w/ Red Poly Bushings
• 2” Forged Wheel Spacers
• Alignment booked immediately after install

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Audio Upgrades:​

• Rockford Fosgate Punch P1694 6x9 4-Way (x4 – all doors)
• Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 3.5” Dash Coaxials (x2)
• Plug-and-play harnesses for both

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A Few Notes:​

I’ve got a decent mechanical understanding. I change fluids, brakes, and I’m big on prepping and organizing before any major work. This truck is my daily, and while a crate motor was considered, I thought this build would be way more rewarding. I’m 100% committed — and I know premium fuel is in my future.
I’ll be doing the cam swap with guidance from my girl’s dad, a seasoned mechanic, but I’ll be leading the build. I’m cleaning the bay before teardown and soaking the Hellcat lifters in fresh oil overnight. Cam bolt will be torqued to 90 ft-lbs with blue Loctite — already noted. All the other torque specs and installation instructions have been heavily researched, videos watched, and experienced mechanics words understood.
I'm ADHD and have a touch of the 'tism, so believe me, I’ve researched this to death and back. Still, if I’m missing anything or off track, I genuinely welcome suggestions. This will be my first time cracking open a HEMI.


Also planning:

• Full coolant flush (old hoses are getting brittle)
• Break-in oil + procedure
• MPVI3 Tuner for economy, drivability, and transmission longevity (until transmission & rear diff upgrade)
• Titanium header wrap + clear high-temp sealer
• Transmission & rear diff upgrades in future phases

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If you’ve done a HEMI cam swap, tuned with MPVI3, or have suspension/audio tips, drop some knowledge. I’ll be updating the thread with progress pics and notes.

 

[4d6n2]

Does anyone have any advice that has done this build before? Any thoughts on my parts list? Anything to look out for or to be sure to do/not to do? Just trying to absorb as much information as possible before we get started on this build this week. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Wild one]

Does anyone have any advice that has done this build before? Any thoughts on my parts list? Anything to look out for or to be sure to do/not to do? Just trying to absorb as much information as possible before we get started on this build this week. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

You don't need a high volumn oil pump,instead keep the stock pump and up the idle rpm to 750 or slightly more.You're going to be tuning it anyways,so have your tuner up the idle rpm,it'll accomplish more then the high volumn pump will,as the cam lobes and lifter wheel are still lubed by the oil flung off the crankshaft,so a high volumn pump does nothing to put more lube on the high wear parts of the cam.

 

[CMACK]

I know this post was a few months back but do you have any updates for us ??

Also how much was your bill for all the engine parts? (audio/suspension excluded)

 

[4d6n2]

I know this post was a few months back but do you have any updates for us ??

Also how much was your bill for all the engine parts? (audio/suspension excluded)

I had to relocate the disassembled truck over the last 2 weeks so im just now getting settled into another place to finish the job. Update pics will come shortly and ill get you a round about total.

 

[sport2013]

Hey how that build going is it running if so how's the cam is it what you expected.

 

[4d6n2]

Hey how that build going is it running if so how's the cam is it what you expected.

I have had delay after delay after delay my man. Ive had the truck towed to the 3rd spot for repairs now. Over-lubed the head bolts and making amateur mistake after mistake, but its loaded with lessons. Guys on here are helping me understand things tremendously. So no, not up and running yet. I appreciate you asking. Im getting burned out on it but pushing on.

 

[Wild one]

I have had delay after delay after delay my man. Ive had the truck towed to the 3rd spot for repairs now. Over-lubed the head bolts and making amateur mistake after mistake, but its loaded with lessons. Guys on here are helping me understand things tremendously. So no, not up and running yet. I appreciate you asking. Im getting burned out on it but pushing on.

We all learned by making mistakes,so don't let them get you down.You're doing good in my book

 

[4d6n2]

We all learned by making mistakes,so don't let them get you down.You're doing good in my book

Heck yeah thats the kind of nudge I needed. Thanks man.
Today I managed to get out there and clean the head mating surfaces again and got the cam bolt out so I can reinstall a new one. So Wild one I believe i read that you don't like to use threadlock on your cam bolt. This TSP cam came with a yellow card on top in the box that said to use blue loctite and torque it to 90 ft-lb with a brand new bolt. Now when I pulled the cam bolt, the blue loctite wasn't solid. It was still a wet paste. So I blasted the threads inside the cam with brake cleaner and compressed air and used a brass tube brush to get anything out, which nothing came out. It doesn't look as if the loctite even hit the threads inside the cam. I didn't put it all the way up and down the threads on the bolt eithe, only in the middle of the bolt. Again, im thinking another blessing in disguise, lol. But is the whole cam bolt supposed to be hit with the blue? The far tip of it? I find it wild that it didnt even cure. I got a new tube of blue in case the old tube being open and in the heat for so long may have compromised the integrity.
And since the cam has been sitting in there for several weeks, should I break the cam plate bolts and pull the cam and re-apply a generous amount of assembly lube? Should I pull the lifters again too?

 

[Wild one]

Heck yeah thats the kind of nudge I needed. Thanks man.
Today I managed to get out there and clean the head mating surfaces again and got the cam bolt out so I can reinstall a new one. So Wild one I believe i read that you don't like to use threadlock on your cam bolt. This TSP cam came with a yellow card on top in the box that said to use blue loctite and torque it to 90 ft-lb with a brand new bolt. Now when I pulled the cam bolt, the blue loctite wasn't solid. It was still a wet paste. So I blasted the threads inside the cam with brake cleaner and compressed air and used a brass tube brush to get anything out, which nothing came out. It doesn't look as if the loctite even hit the threads inside the cam. I didn't put it all the way up and down the threads on the bolt eithe, only in the middle of the bolt. Again, im thinking another blessing in disguise, lol. But is the whole cam bolt supposed to be hit with the blue? The far tip of it? I find it wild that it didnt even cure. I got a new tube of blue in case the old tube being open and in the heat for so long may have compromised the integrity.
And since the cam has been sitting in there for several weeks, should I break the cam plate bolts and pull the cam and re-apply a generous amount of assembly lube? Should I pull the lifters again too?

We all learned by making mistakes,nobody is born knowing anything about life,your doing good,keep up the good work
You can use blue loctite if you want,but i've never had any issues with not using it either. If TSP reconmends using it,go for it,they know more about their cams then i do. Spread it on the threads about 2 or 3 threads from the start of the threads and go back maybe a 1/2 dozen threads from there with it,that way it'll travel up the threads when you run the bolt in. The cam and lifters should still be good with the assembly lube you used,most of them don't really drip off the cam lobes even after sitting a couple weeks.Has the engine been well covered while you were moving the truck,the only thing i'd worry about is if any dust made it's way into it while it was being moved and then parked while being open.If it looks like any dust/dirt might have made it's way into the engine that'd be the only reason to pull the cam and lifters and re-clean them and reinstall more assembly lube,if it stayed clean,i wouldn't be to worried about pulling the cam to clean it and the lifters

 

[Lyle Longboat]

I read the title and thought… that’s one heck of a misfire!

 

[Wild one]

I read the title and thought… that’s one heck of a misfire!

Damn where you been hiding at Lyle,haven't seen you post in along time.
Rick

 

[4d6n2]

Hey fellas. Im back at it. Under the truck cleaning the crank case and oil pan gasket surface. Looking up at the passenger side by the exhaust i see what looks like a potentially torn ground? Am I wrong?

 

[Wild one]

Hey fellas. Im back at it. Under the truck cleaning the crank case and oil pan gasket surface. Looking up at the passenger side by the exhaust i see what looks like a potentially torn ground? Am I wrong?

Hard to tell,but it sure looks like it's a bit worse for wear. I'd run a new one,as you can get universal ground straps at pretty well any auto parts store.

 

[04fxdwgi]

Hey fellas. Im back at it. Under the truck cleaning the crank case and oil pan gasket surface. Looking up at the passenger side by the exhaust i see what looks like a potentially torn ground? Am I wrong?

Good catch on the bad shielding bond cable.. Bad grounds and RF shielding bonds make the gremlins come out in full force and they are angry.

 

[Lyle Longboat]

Damn where you been hiding at Lyle,haven't seen you post in along time.
Rick

I’ve been full time workaholic and hockey dad to my 10 year old boy. Travelling like
Crazy for hockey and working hard to fund it! I haven’t been doing anything new to the truck and she sits lol. I actually forgot about the form until I a got an email. Signed back in and here I am.

 

[4d6n2]

Good catch on the bad shielding bond cable.. Bad grounds and RF shielding bonds make the gremlins come out in full force and they are angry.

Man i cant seem to find where this sucker connects. Any ideas? Its on the passenger side where the exhaust manifold bolts to the rest of the exhaust system

 

[Wild one]

Man i cant seem to find where this sucker connects. Any ideas? Its on the passenger side where the exhaust manifold bolts to the rest of the exhaust system

Look on the back side of the head

 

[4d6n2]

Look on the back side of the head

I do see the two ground cable bolts that had the cable linking the two heads.

 

[Wild one]

I do see the two ground cable bolts that had the cable linking the two heads.

It might have the same style clip on both ends,and the other end could clip to the firewall,look for scratch marks on the firewall seam that should be fairly close to the heat shield