Everything Bilstein Mega Thread

[Oliver_Closov]

Mine is a daily driver that is also used for weekend off-road exploration. I won't be hitting anything too advanced, but want great ride quality (on AND off-road) that I keep reading the 6112s give over the front 5100s.

I am toying with a few options/combinations:
My current desire is to put 6112s up front at whatever is highest setting and either 5160s or 5100s in rear with either 1223v rear springs or icon 1.5" springs. I will upgrade UCAs to either Mevotechs or Zones too.

My question is whether the 1.5" lift spring necessitates the 5160s or if they truly are the same extended length. Does one shock give more overall travel than the other or is the difference about cylinder width?

 

[R.L.K.]

Bump to a great thread [emoji1303][emoji1303]

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[RLJ10X]

Glad you bumped this thread. I read all 35 pages.

My Bil 5100s should be in any day now. So obviously, I don't have the instructions yet. The placement of the top washer seems to be very critical. Do the instructions clearly show where the washer goes? (I seen to make that type of mistake too often)

 

[R.L.K.]

Glad you bumped this thread. I read all 35 pages.

My Bil 5100s should be in any day now. So obviously, I don't have the instructions yet. The placement of the top washer seems to be very critical. Do the instructions clearly show where the washer goes? (I seen to make that type of mistake too often)

Check out this thread on Bilstines as well and definitely refer to post #26 as I've put a few tips in there and explained the proper placement of the washer as well .

Hope this helps !



https://www.ramforum.com/index.php?posts/1206420

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[RLJ10X]

A pic is worth a bazillion words. Thanks!

Really looking forward to getting the Bils!

 

[R.L.K.]

A pic is worth a bazillion words. Thanks!

Really looking forward to getting the Bils!

If you're planning to do the install yourself , I highly recommend reading post #26 I linked above [emoji1303]

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[akennedyusmc]

Hey y'all finally started my bils last night. Got my passenger strut assembly out but couldn't separate my driver side ball joint. Any pointers?


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[R.L.K.]

Hey y'all finally started my bils last night. Got my passenger strut assembly out but couldn't separate my driver side ball joint. Any pointers?


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I recommend soaking in WD 40 or PB Blaster or the likes , a couple days before ....but since you can't do that now take a heat gun and heat the piece the tapered ball joint is going through , once too hot to touch and hold put the nut back on about 3-4 threads only and SMACK the nut with a hammer . If you have an air hammer do the same with it .

You can rent from NAPA , Advanced Auto ect ball joint seperators as well .
Good luck !

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[akennedyusmc]

I recommend soaking in WD 40 or PB Blaster or the likes , a couple days before ....but since you can't do that now take a heat gun and heat the piece the tapered ball joint is going through , once too hot to touch and hold put the nut back on about 3-4 threads only and SMACK the nut with a hammer . If you have an air hammer do the same with it .

You can rent from NAPA , Advanced Auto ect ball joint seleratirs as well .
Good luck !

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Been at it all morning. It's driving me nuts. I took a break from the drivers side and completed my passenger side no problem. I just got to torque em down.
Tried the torch, straight up beating it out, using leverage....might need to run into town to get this ball joint extractor you mentioned....I go back to work tomorrow so kinda in a rush lol


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[RLJ10X]

Thanks in large part to the fine gentlemen here, I have Bils 5100s front and back. I'm stock on the rear, with the clip on the second highest groove, up front. The truck is on a little incline, so it appears to be dead level, but I have about 1 1/8" forward rake, which for me is perfect. When I put a 430 pound Ducati on back, it should be real close to honestly level.

As far as ride quality, I can't tell much of a difference. But I think it looks great.

 

[akennedyusmc]

I recommend soaking in WD 40 or PB Blaster or the likes , a couple days before ....but since you can't do that now take a heat gun and heat the piece the tapered ball joint is going through , once too hot to touch and hold put the nut back on about 3-4 threads only and SMACK the nut with a hammer . If you have an air hammer do the same with it .

You can rent from NAPA , Advanced Auto ect ball joint seperators as well .
Good luck !

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Got her all done. Had a buddy come and help. Apparently I wasn't trying hard enough because he got it loose in less then ten minutes.
I was torqueing everything up and then this happened....

Is there anything I can do about this?


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[hodge-xj]

Unfortunately you're looking at a new spindle. The cast aluminum can't handle the extra heat and beating on from a hammer. That's super unfortunate man, I am sorry especially after your ordeal. I would just start tearing it all back apart and get on car ID or parts geek and have one ordered tonight. I've always heard of cast splitting like yours did but have been lucky to not experience it.

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[akennedyusmc]

Unfortunately you're looking at a new spindle. The cast aluminum can't handle the extra heat and beating on from a hammer. That's super unfortunate man, I am sorry especially after your ordeal. I would just start tearing it all back apart and get on car ID or parts geek and have one ordered tonight. I've always heard of cast splitting like yours did but have been lucky to not experience it.

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The weird part is that this is the passenger side that came apart perfectly. The driver side was the step child side......
Should I just reorder a new spindle or take this up with dodge/ram?


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[hodge-xj]

The weird part is that this is the passenger side that came apart perfectly. The driver side was the step child side......
Should I just reorder a new spindle or take this up with dodge/ram?


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Unfortunately it'd be a safe bet they'd deny you repair since you had it apart yourself. I'm on my phone but it looks like it cracked next to a hammer mark just to the right of the top of the crack. I'm not sure what a spindle will cost but I'd plan on doin it yourself. Unless you have a really really good dealer who can help you out most would tell you to pound salt.

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[R.L.K.]

Got her all done. Had a buddy come and help. Apparently I wasn't trying hard enough because he got it loose in less then ten minutes.
I was torqueing everything up and then this happened....

Is there anything I can do about this?


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Damn that's terrible !!!
Your probably on your own with this replacement ....depends on the dealer but your probably better off just changing yourself [emoji1303]

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[hodge-xj]

Pulled out my iPad, definitely looks like it cracked on a casting relief mark, coupled with a little shot from a hammer, than wedging the taper of the bj in there was the perfect scenario to spilt the cheap aluminum like dry fire wood. Fortunately it didn't happen elsewhere or was unnoticed. Granted its a defect perse, you exploited the weakness doin the modifications. They'll use that against you all day. Sure does resound the "not built like they used to" when you had cast iron knuckle you could beat all day long.

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[hodge-xj]

https://www.mymoparpart.com/p/Ram_2..._kvh7-Af-nLsw_vOoaQX8yppbgWJjr9xoC1S4QAvD_BwE

Seems like oem knuckles are still hard to find aside from direct thru mopar parts dealers. Here's a link, hopefully you can find one for a better price. Keep us posted. I know there's a vendor on this forum, can't remember who. Wish I could help more man. Especially since you're without a vehicle.

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[akennedyusmc]

Thanks for the help gents. I had no hammer on this side what so ever. The other side looks like you'd expect. I'll be making a phone call to my dealer during work tomorrow just to see what they can/will do for me since it's less than a year old still...and fortunately we have an extra car.


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[hodge-xj]

If you've got no hammer marks than I'd call them definitely. The spot I'm referring to looks like it could have been a peen mark but I was building off assumption. There's no reason without doubt in my mind that this is not ok, especially with acceptable forces being applied. Level kit or not, this is a QC issue you're unlucky enough to have. It's a hard argument if it was a beat up knuckle, but if it's got no peen or marring on it, which it looks like it doesn't, id say someone better make this right. Unless you managed to torque that to 4,000,000 lb ft without shearing the bj stud lol

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[akennedyusmc]

If you've got no hammer marks than I'd call them definitely. The spot I'm referring to looks like it could have been a peen mark but I was building off assumption. There's no reason without doubt in my mind that this is not ok, especially with acceptable forces being applied. Level kit or not, this is a QC issue you're unlucky enough to have. It's a hard argument if it was a beat up knuckle, but if it's got no peen or marring on it, which it looks like it doesn't, id say someone better make this right. Unless you managed to torque that to 4,000,000 lb ft without shearing the bj stud lol

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Thanks I'll be hitting them up tomorrow for sure! Kinda hard to just wait for them to let me know what they think. A very little part of me kinda just wants to say screw it and order another piece tonight lol


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