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GTyankee

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2016
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3.0 ecodiesel

sydbarringer

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I'd get a second estimate. $1200 seems way too much for that repair. The OEM pump from Mopar is around $500, (aftermarket around $200 - $250), generously giving them 3 hours labor to replace @ $150 an hour works out to around $950.
Maybe they planned to replace the tank straps, too. Haha. I was quoted $1400 in late Oct 2023 in Tuscaloosa, Ala because they knew I was headed back to Virginia the next day. They said the fuel pump HAD to be replaced, too, as sensor and pump were "integrated". I said "no". Got back to VA just fine, using the 350 mile method. It seems the parts ARE available separately, but the job requires the tank to be dropped anyway. My fuel sensor died when I had a crash. Now i have to convince insurance that it worked before the crash.
 

EdGs

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EdGs
that fuel line tool is better than screw driver & pliers


even the cheaper tools work

View attachment 531301
Actually the release for the pump line is kind of a pushbutton style. There is a u-shaped (ish) locking clip that was missing.

It must've come off when the bedside was repaired when I got hit in a parking lot a couple years back, the body shop did have the bed off, but they didn't have to mess with the lines, except the filler neck.

I got the fitting to release by hand, but it did take a bit. If I had been trying to get at it from underneath, I'm not sure if it would've released.
 

jmc921

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Dallastown, PA
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2014
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5.7 L Hemi
Like one of the earlier posts, my CEL comes on between full and 3/4. The fuel gauge never stops working except very briefly but starts working within seconds and never has any issues once I’m below 3/4 full. I have been clearing the code using AlfaOBD so it’s only a nuisance for now. My dealer quoted $1,325 to replace the entire fuel pump.

I was wondering if there is a way to use AlfaOBD to tell the system not to turn on the CEL. I have noticed that not all codes turn on the CEL so maybe there is a setting that can be changed. Does anyone know if that’s possible?
 

Curmudgeon

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2014 1500 Laramie 4x4 QC, 3.21 rear, 8-speed
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Like one of the earlier posts, my CEL comes on between full and 3/4. The fuel gauge never stops working except very briefly but starts working within seconds and never has any issues once I’m below 3/4 full. I have been clearing the code using AlfaOBD so it’s only a nuisance for now. My dealer quoted $1,325 to replace the entire fuel pump.

I was wondering if there is a way to use AlfaOBD to tell the system not to turn on the CEL. I have noticed that not all codes turn on the CEL so maybe there is a setting that can be changed. Does anyone know if that’s possible?
About 2 years ago my fuel gauge went to empty, full time. The dealer warned me it could be fuel sensor, or sensor and pump together. I was told the would diagnose each. They did.

Fuel pump checked good, sensor failed. Parts and labor were just under $700. I said all that so I could tell you it was Stetler in West York.

And $700 is spendy but 1/2 the price you were quoted. Are you sure you need both?
 

Sherman Bird

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Houston, Texas
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1998
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5.2
Like one of the earlier posts, my CEL comes on between full and 3/4. The fuel gauge never stops working except very briefly but starts working within seconds and never has any issues once I’m below 3/4 full. I have been clearing the code using AlfaOBD so it’s only a nuisance for now. My dealer quoted $1,325 to replace the entire fuel pump.

I was wondering if there is a way to use AlfaOBD to tell the system not to turn on the CEL. I have noticed that not all codes turn on the CEL so maybe there is a setting that can be changed. Does anyone know if that’s possible?
The truck is nearly 10 years old. Fix it! GEE!
 

jmc921

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About 2 years ago my fuel gauge went to empty, full time. The dealer warned me it could be fuel sensor, or sensor and pump together. I was told the would diagnose each. They did.

Fuel pump checked good, sensor failed. Parts and labor were just under $700. I said all that so I could tell you it was Stetler in West York.

And $700 is spendy but 1/2 the price you were quoted. Are you sure you need both?
The quote was from Thornton on Cape Horn Road. Do you think Stetler would be less expensive? Also, when I look at any Mopar parts listing, the sensor as a stand alone is no longer available.

Also, Sherman Bird - I appreciate what you’re saying but a lot of us don’t have $1,300 laying around. Plus, I have just paid for broken exhaust manifold bolts ($725) and have scheduled work for a bad front hub assembly (don’t know the price yet but it will likely be in the $300 to $500 range and that’s from my local mechanic). So, all in, I’m looking at a total pushing $3,000 so if I can safely postpone a $1,300 expense, I will.
 

Curmudgeon

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Your price on exhaust manifold bolts is consistent with what I have paid at Stetler. I was just hoping that you might luck out on the parts.

Stetler has been doing all maintenance and repairs on my truck since 2017 when I bought it.
I'm currently waiting for a UOA from Blackstone Labs. Curious to see what it shows since no one at Stetler has any detail about the oil they're pouring into my engine.
One guy says Pennzoil Synthetic but can't tell me which one. The parts guys say it's Mopar oil.

I'm about this close >< to choosing another shop. I need to keep this vehicle going, I'm retired and don't plan on another vehicle payment.
 

EagleChief

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The quote was from Thornton on Cape Horn Road. Do you think Stetler would be less expensive? Also, when I look at any Mopar parts listing, the sensor as a stand alone is no longer available.

Also, Sherman Bird - I appreciate what you’re saying but a lot of us don’t have $1,300 laying around. Plus, I have just paid for broken exhaust manifold bolts ($725) and have scheduled work for a bad front hub assembly (don’t know the price yet but it will likely be in the $300 to $500 range and that’s from my local mechanic). So, all in, I’m looking at a total pushing $3,000 so if I can safely postpone a $1,300 expense, I will.
Get your local mechanic to quote you the fuel pump replacement. I paid $650 for a mechanic to replace mine. The part was $400, which was ordered from a local parts store (small town, higher costs) and it was a quick job for him with his lift. The sensor was available for a while as a stand alone part for roughly $100, but I think that was before Covid hit and then part suppliers took a hit. You have to pull the pump to replace that anyway, so the labor cost is the same. As our trucks get older with more miles, you may be better off just replacing the whole pump.
 

Sherman Bird

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The truck is nearly 10 years old. Fix it! GEE!
The short answer is NO! The fuel level sender is a part of the OBD2 monitoring system. It is crucial for EVAP evaluation and reporting for I/M function. Whoever disables it is violating an EPA mandate. Why would they want that potential liability?
 

Beeman2010

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I have a 2014 Ram 1500 and am heading for the 3rd time for a new fuel sending unit!! original at 56,258 miles now another at 84,000 miles...less than 30,000 miles on this one.
Estimate today from dealer $1200 plus tax. Reported to Ram group and they told me its on me to repair!!!
We all need to report our issues to NTSB and see if we can force a recall on these!!!!
So much being on a fxed income when this comes around....
 

jmc921

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As an update, I ended up having my local mechanic replace the fuel pump assembly. Cost was about $950 compared to the $1,325 quote from the dealer so, not cheap but still saved $375. Breakdown on costs included $560 for the fuel pump. Rest was labor plus tax.
 

GTyankee

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RockAuto is my GO TO parts supplier


Sparta Fuel Pumps info: Economy Brand
Sparta is a product of DELPHI Technologies
SPARTA PN3109 $116.79

Daily Driver Fuel Pump

US MOTOR WORKS USEP7270M Info Heart.png $123.79
Big Horn; Express; Laramie Limited; Laramie Longhorn; Lone Star; Outdoorsman; SLT Model; Special Service; Sport; Tradesman

The difference between a Auto Parts Store purchase & US Mail or UPS
Is how quickly you need the part in your hand
& how willing you are to pay the Parts store handling fees
 

jmc921

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GTyankee, I appreciate that there are less expensive alternatives to the Mopar part but my mechanic won’t install something that may not be up to the same standards as the OEM part since, as he explained it, if the part fails, he eats the cost of re-doing the repair. I understand that other parts suppliers, especially somebody like Rock Auto, are selling decent quality replacement parts and, that makes sense if you’re going to do the repair yourself but, I also understand my mechanic’s viewpoint when he has to warranty the job.

Plus, I’ve gotten too old to take on a job like this so I go to a guy I trust and at least save on the labor cost compared to the dealer.
 

EdGs

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I paid ~$200 for the Delphi that I got at RockAuto, I believe OE was $600ish.

It sucks that the pump itself was still working, but if you replace the sensor and then the pump goes out later, you have to pull the pump again. Crapshoot.

I will say that the level sensor acts a little different on this new pump. When the low fuel light activates, the needle seems to be more on 'E' than it was with the OE pump.
 
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GTyankee

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I would almost bet you that the actual OEM Mopar Fuel Pump is one of the RockAuto listed fuel pumps.

But as i mentioned, it is quicker to buy a fuel pump locally, even if you do have to pay more for the part
 

EdGs

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I would almost bet you that the actual OEM Mopar Fuel Pump is one of the RockAuto listed fuel pumps.

But as i mentioned, it is quicker to buy a fuel pump locally, even if you do have to pay more for the part
Funny you say that, because around the time I was replacing it, I was talking to the owner of an auto shop by my work. I mentioned that I had bought a Delphi pump, and he said they make the OE pumps for Chrysler.
 
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