More mods...maybe?

[powderbrad]

Alright, cause I just cant get enough....

Thinking some lightweight 17's with drag radial or a great street tire (275 variety either way out back), hopefully a 245 or skinny-ish out front.

2800 TC. Don't want higher, I don't tow ever really, but I still use it as a truck. just a quick street toy most times though.

I always wanted some fancy lights and gauges, so maybe a wideband AFR gauge, vac guage. meaning Ill have to drill my ARH headers for a new **** for the AFR sensor and get it welded. Can do this when I drop the piping to do TC anyways. Kinda a pain in the ass since id have to do the **** weld portion at work and get the welder to do the welding. Probably not bad though. Just get it drilled, welded and put a plug in place til I do the rest. Not really needed, but adds a sporty look to the interior.

Wondering if its worth it..I know, loaded question as its MY truck.

Thing is its a fun vehicle, and Im assuming would only be more fun with a TC and some smaller Diameter tires. no plans to buy another vehicle any time soon. Ive a company truck for work, a beater for store trips and whatnot, and my hemi for fun romps. A bike for the speed fulfillment too.

I think the truck would be a blast for a street ride.

Question:

Noticeable fun factor with a TC and tires? Drastic performance difference? I guess drastic means ANY improvement. Im SUREit would be better but worth $2000 ?? (tires, rims, TC, gauges, time, etc)

Basically the only mods over what ive got are smaller lighter tires (I also have 22 R/Ts though. lighter, and cant be much more than a 17 alum with drags. are they?)) but Im going more for the smaller tire and more improved gear reduction ratio and TC for harder launches. im sure that's where the improvements will be made.

In doing so, will it still fall on its face in 4th running through the 1/4? Im assuming so since itll shift to 4th quicker, meaning maybe the improved launching is crippled up top going to 4th negating my mods?

thanks,

MATT - looking specifically for advise since you'd be getting the order

Link to what I think are lightweight 17's. Offset and backspacing are different than stock, Id prefer a clean look, not too inward or outward at all. Price is rightr since im just running these when I wanna race around. the RT's are for show with some go

http://www.moes-performance.com/Pro_Comp_Alloy_1069_17x9_5x5_5_Polished_Aluminum_p/1069-7985.htm

 

[N1ck]

Since you are 4x4 be careful with different size tires up front vs back.

 

[powderbrad]

Just width.

Itll be same overall height or as close as I can. just thinking DR out back nice and wide, skinner same overall height fronts. I dont wanna run DR's all around (AHEM BLACK MAMBA) as I get good traction anyways. Maybe not after a TC though, I dunno, never had a vehicle with one.

I don't plan on launching 4wd either.

 

[Hemi450hp]

My advice is to start with the converter, and then do 17s with DR's only if you plan to take it to the track. The reason for this is that my blue truck is nearly impossible to get traction on the street with a converter and light weight 17's. Your 22's look a lot nicer, and may give you just enough traction to be able to launch on the street without blowing the tires off through 3rd gear like mine does. Sure its fun to see a little smoke in the mirror, but you don't win races that way.

I would go straight to a 3000 stall as a 2800 would be leaving more power on the table.

As for gauges, sure they are fun to look at, but with your mods, they really are not necessary. I would rather see you put that money towards an underdrive pulley than a set of gauges that wont really serve any benefit.

Then after this is all said and done, maybe a set of lightweight 17's and DR's for the track. Running DR's on the street all the time will destroy the compound quickly, and trucing to run street 17's will make traction nearly impossible.

 

[powderbrad]

Yeah I wouldn't run DR's on the street long. Just when Im really out for fun Or at the track he in town. Dont know how much difference would be with 17's over the RT's. Likely good for .4???

3000 seems high on a converter to me, but perhaps Id like it? I will occasionally use it as a truck, so Id like to retain some driveability when hauling. (probably pretty rare. but a few sleds in winter out back on trailer. Hell, maybe just use my dads diesel )

Id be comfortable with a 2800 like many others have done (only comfortable with it bcause others HAVE done I), and perhaps this will still overload my 285/45/22 RT's.

PERHAPS ANOTHER ROUTE?

Valve body for the trans? Couple that with a TC and that would probably instill some fun...not? Stage 2 or so? I guess I could search and learn about that. Id be up for harder firmer shifts as long as its not hard on the tranny. Harder / firmer is likely better as to my understanding. All this should drop 0-60 and 60 ft times as long as the tires hold.

Throw a U/D pulley on there too. Does that affect AC or any functions that happen to run off that system? How much is the reduction? Is it worth an U/D pulley? Charging rates will go down, warmer AC, etc, etc??

I know all these are tweaks guys have been doing for years, I had U/D pullies on a stang once and didn't notice anything detrimental at all. Hoping for the same if I go that route.

 

[Hemi450hp]

My crew cab 4wd has 4.56's and a 3000 stall converter. That is my daily driver that gets used to family trips, hauling the kayak trailer to the beach, driving in sand, etc...

3000 is high for someone that is slugging through mud or hauling a 6000lb trailer through the mountains, but it is perfectly fine for lighter duty use and street driving. These transmissions run fairly cool as well, so heat isn't much of a factor. With the Mag Hytec transmission pan, I never see over 155* transmission temp in that truck.

As for the pulley, its worth another 10-12hp/tq to the wheels and will make the truck more responsive. My 60' dropped a bit from the pulley as well, so I'm happy with the performance. I haven't seen any negative affects of charging, but I also don't have a huge stereo or a row of offroad lights across the front. If you don't have any major electrical draw from these items, then you are perfectly fine with the pulley.

 

[TRIGGER_Hemi]

so would a UD be okay to run if you only had intake, ported TB and exhaust?

Ill be doing a drop with 22s soon and only time I tow is our 18ft jet boat with a built 455 so its pretty light

 

[powderbrad]

UD pulley from my understanding will always work regardless of mods. Less losses from belts and such, lets the engine work easier.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Doesn't matter if you are bone stock, or have every bolt on, the pulley will work regardless. The tq converter is what can affect drivability when towing.

 

[Dubstep Shep]

The only time an underdrive pulley is going to hurt anything is if you have a blower or large electrical needs.

 

[charonblk07]

If you want the DRs for the rear and something skinnier for the front I've got the 295/45R17 DRs on the back with a 225/60R17 around the stock steelies on the front and the size difference is 0.4% which is well within tolerance for the 4wd's ability to handle. The fronts cost me $200 for the pair vs the $700 for a pair of DRs from Mopac.