Oil Filter struggle and remote filter kit install

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jagr200

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With oil drained and filter finally removed I get ready to install my relocation kit. Most kits include 90 degree connectors on each piece. I didn't want that nor were hoses able to be routed on the Ram with 90's so I pieced together my own kit using Perma Cool parts. All made in USA. The single filter mount allows larger, better filters.

So looking at your setup do the lines slope down? It looks like your adapter and filter are now in line. On my 2013 the filter sits WAY up. Like atleast 12" up from the underside of the truck. Yours looks much closer. Maybe the pictures are deceiving. I didn't think they changed the HEMI but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
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sportcoupe

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So looking at your setup do the lines slope down? It looks like your adapter and filter are now in line. On my 2013 the filter sits WAY up. Like atleast 12" up from the underside of the truck. Yours looks much closer. Maybe the pictures are deceiving. I didn't think they changed the HEMI but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

My filter was way up too. I have a 2017.
My setup the oil lines are inline with the engine adapter.
 

GIJoe2010

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1. Four of these (or different manufacturer): 10 AN 90* coupler

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Fragola-2290...376554&hash=item58a132684a:g:C9IAAOSwUn9aA51G

2. Four of these: 1/2 NPT to 10 AN straight coupler

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Fragola-4816...894194&hash=item4d0da6c2fe:g:gDwAAOSwiBJZ6iZK

3. At least 6 feet of the (braided) oil line of your choice. You only really need about 4 feet but if you cut too short you gotta start over, when in doubt cut longer than you think will fit.

4. You may want this as well, for a little insurance to prevent possible leaks: ARP Thread sealer

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ARP-100-9904...Stud-Sealer-/321341783800?txnId=1896620634011

5. And finally this: 10AN wrench non-adjustable

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Billet-Alumi...929020?txnId=1461679458003#vi__app-cvip-panel

Or if you have or will have multiple projects with AN fittings: adjustable AN Wrench

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-A...072887?hash=item1a30c08477:g:O-QAAOSwG0BZbvFB

A best practice when assembling your AN hoses and fittings is using a bench vice to hold one side of the fitting and using the AN wrench that tighten the other side of the fitting, ensure you leave about a finger nails width between both sides of the fitting and clocking it. This is an example of what I mean.

 

GIJoe2010

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All the 90* fittings shown (both red/black and all black) are the cheap $6 EBay fittings no-name Chinese fittings. Both red/black ones leaked no matter what I did to fix them, until I replaced them with the 90* fittings (Fragola) as noted in my previous post.

48897965-A889-45D7-81EB-1F66F46868A7.jpeg
 
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Chief_6.7

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All the 90* fittings shown (both red/black and all black) are the cheap $6 EBay fittings no-name Chinese fittings. Both red/black ones leaked no matter what I did to fix them, until I replaced them with the 90* fittings (Fragola) as noted in my previous post.

View attachment 128938
Can you use the braided lines with barb type fittings and the just use a worm clamp?
 

GIJoe2010

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Probably. That’s essentially what I’ve got on my catch can. The only issue might be the PSI running through the lines would require something a little more stout than just a clamp.

F94C608A-60BF-487B-BA9F-717F5BD03262.jpeg
 

GIJoe2010

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I will add though, in the TransDapt kit all it comes with is barbed fittings and hose with no clamps whatsoever.

68A154AB-72BC-421D-9501-B88E7993B8A8.jpeg
 
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NCRaineman

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Interesting. As someone who prefers to do my own maintenance this is something I'll have to check into. I'm used to working on older vehicles where thought was given to how Average Joe would do maintenance without needing special tools.
 
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sportcoupe

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@sportcoupe How did you clock the 3798 spin on adapter?

I used a sharpie and marked the center nut to the body when the internal holes lined up best with the forward fittings. I'm not sure I had to though. I don't have the paperwork that came with the adapter and can't find it online either.
 

GIJoe2010

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@sportcoupe Thanks. The reason I ask is I have the TransDapt kit (as posted above) and have developed a leak on one of the outlet/inlets. I'm hoping it's a just bad 1/2" NPT to AN straight adapter fitting and not the spin on filter adapter unit. I'm pretty sure it is and I will say again to those considering doing this:

Don't buy cheap knock off parts (AN braided line and fittings). I have taken parts of this kit apart multiple times now to fix leaks and such. I should have just installed it as it was designed, but I wanted the cool factor (thanks @charonblk07). Live and learn I guess.

On the plus side, if anyone in South Carolina or surrounding area needs help with this project, I'm a fricking expert now. The only thing that would make changing my oil any quicker is getting a Fumoto valve.

By the way, did anyone figure out the appropriate part/model number for the Fumoto Valve for the 5.7 oil pan???
 

TXCOMT

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There are multiple PNs...F106S is what I plan to use for my '16 Rebel on account of the short nipple. The Fumoto site shows F106, F106SX and F106N as working for '16 1500 5.7s, too. My argument for using the S model is because there's less length for an object to hit and cause damage during any off-road excursions, yet I can still use a hose (also sold by Fumoto) to directly drain the pan to the waste container.

TXCOMT
 
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TXCOMT

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Glad to help!

BTW, when you say you wish you had installed the TransDapt kit as designed, do you mean with the stock fittings and hoses? I'm guessing you'd still need 3/4-inch hose clamps and pipe tape to ensure there aren't any leaks, based on what I seeing from multiple comments and reviews. Do you, and anyone who installed the 1127 kit, think it'd be trouble free with those additions or should I just piece together a system as suggested earlier in this thread?

TXCOMT
 
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GIJoe2010

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@TXCOMT Just buy the kit and install it as is with the addition of hose clamps. If you want “cool factor” with braided lines and AN fittings, spend the extra coin and get quality name brand kit, not no-name Chinese/knock-off line or fittings. I will say you should use ARP thread sealer instead of the Teflon tape on the brass barb fittings (I posted a pic of them previously) I had a leak from that and once I swapped to the ARP sealer, it fixed it.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ARP-100-9904...Stud-Sealer-/321341783800?txnId=1896620634011

Don’t be fooled. The picture makes the tube look small but it’s actually pretty large, and even “used liberally” as it describes in the instructions you don’t use much.
 
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