Transmission pan and fluid change questions

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Different Drummer

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Bummer! I used an OEM pan so cannot make a first hand type comment.
I do know that some on the forum have used the PPE pan without the inserts and have done so successfully. Also from reading here the folks who reused the inserts in the PPE pan had to ream out the pan holes slightly to get the inserts to fit.
My understanding is that the inserts are used on the OEM pan to prevent over torquing down on the plastic ( or whatever it is ) pan.
Be careful if you are going to torque those leaking bolts any tighter. Last thing you need now is to be extracting a broken pan bolt.
 

Wild one

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Alright guys, got the PPE pan installed. Pan bolts torqued down to 9-FtLbs / 108-InLbs. I did not use the OEM pan spacers. Made sure fluid level was good using the correct check procedure between 86-122 degrees. Took her out for a drive to get the transmission temp over 160. This temperature is when the transmission bypass valve opens up/closes I guess and it really cycles all the fluid through. My plan was to do this then let the truck cool down then recheck the fluid level once again.

Unfortunately after my drive I have found a leak under 3 of the pan bolts.

Was wondering if you guys had any advice for me . Kind of stumped.

Going to let the truck fully cool down and re torque those 3 bolts to spec just to triple make sure.
Did you use a new OEM gasket? No inserts on my PPE pan,i've never used a torque wrench on the bolts either,and my PPE pan has been on and off at least a 1/2 dozen times,and i've never had any leaks,but i replace the gasket every time i have it off,with the OEM gasket from the local dealer.Make sure you haven't squashed it out at the bolts that are leaking,and you're following the torque sequence
 

FORGEDRAM

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Did you use a new OEM gasket? No inserts on my PPE pan,i've never used a torque wrench on the bolts either,and my PPE pan has been on and off at least a 1/2 dozen times,and i've never had any leaks,but i replace the gasket every time i have it off,with the OEM gasket from the local dealer.Make sure you haven't squashed it out at the bolts that are leaking,and you're following the torque sequence

Hey brother, I used this Felpro gasket that was recommended by another member in this forum that successfully installed a PPE pan on his V6 Ram. It was a perfect fit !

But quick update:

I let the truck cool down to about 92 Degrees. Jacked the rear up so the transmission was level, and re did the fluid level check procedure. Started the truck and cycled through the gears, and when I went under to pull the fill plug, no fluid was coming out! I think I had to fill about another half quart till it started to overflow out. Finished just in time @ 118 degrees.
(Side Note: When it came to the steps where you have to run the truck in second gear for 5 seconds, well she really did not like that. I got a bunch of codes that I had to clear at the end of all this. I will attach a picture of the codes)

After this, I went to recheck the torque on the bolts that were leaking. They were loose! I checked all of the other bolts and im shocked to say but over 75% of the bolts were lose, I was able to give them all some more turns until torqued to spec! (108 Inch-Lbs)
I have no clue how this happened. When I originally put the pan on, I 100% made sure ALL BOLTS WERE TORQUED TO 108 IN LBS.
The only thing I can think of is either with the fluid lubricating the bolts possibly and heating them up and cooling down when I went for the drive after?
Or maybe the fact that I gave a generous amount of anti-seize to all the bolts when installing and maybe that contributed as well? Idk, would love to hear your thoughts.

After retorqueing all bolts, went for another drive to get the temps up. They got up to over 180, no more than 184 if I remember correctly. Came home and what do ya know, there is no leak anymore! lol!

In Summary, I drained 5 1/2 Qts with removal of OEM Pan.
I refilled 6 Qts 28 Oz (Almost 7 Qts / 4 Oz Shy) w/ PPE Pan.

PPE Pan = $350
Felpro Transmission Pan Gasket TOS18773 = $30
Transmission Pan Bolts ordered from IDPARTS.COM = $24 (OEM PN# 6817 4574 AB-00001)
Amsoil ATF = 7 Qts Used = $102 / 2 Qts Unused = $30

Total Cost $536.
 

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joesstripclub

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The 108 in-lbs spec is probably for dry bolts. You basically lubricated them with anti seize so you will have to get them tighter. I had issues with an aftermarket pan gasket leaking. If you cant get it to stop after tightening your bolts again, you might look into an OEM gasket. They were under $20 when I bought mine. Mine also gets angry when you drive the truck in the air. It should all go away on your first drive afterwards.
 

Wild one

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Yea i don't know what's up with those codes,i just push the traction control button on mine,and it's never gave me a code.Glad it all worked out for you though.If it starts to act funny,you might want to switch out the Amsoil to something like Valvolene MaxLife or the ZF 8/9 speed fluid,as both Amsoil and Redline don't have a real good rep in the 8 speeds,but don't worry about it unless the tranny starts to feel funny. I've never used a torque wrench on mine, i trust my wrist more then i trust the majority of inch pound torque wrenches,as i've never ran into one that seems accurate.
 
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bigramma0786

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Stupid question but can you drain the old fluid first while it’s hot and then wait for everything to come down to 85?

I took my truck to my friends lift to do this and some other work, a few hours in it I was all done with the rest and the trans reading was still well over 100F.

I assume the fluid holds a large chunk of the heat. It’s also 80deg where I’m at so it’s going to be a long wait regardless.

Having the temp within the 86-122 range is to get the correct fill level?
 

EdGs

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Don't see why you couldn't, but beware of the hot shift juice.

I would be most worried adding cool(er) fluid to a full hot trans, but that may not be too much of an issue, as it will have cooled some by the time you clean everything off and installing the pan/fliter.

I personally would drain it warm and wait for it to mostly cool before adding fresh juice. JMO, YMMV.

Plenty other stuff can be done in between if need be.
 

BlownGP

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So, maybe a dumb question.
I have a 2wd with the exhaust going under the pan. Will I be able to take the pan off without removing the exhaust?

Thanks
 

miketx

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So, maybe a dumb question.
I have a 2wd with the exhaust going under the pan. Will I be able to take the pan off without removing the exhaust?

Thanks
2wd or 4wd, the exhaust goes under the pan. I've never heard of anyone removing the exhaust. I didn't have any problems with removal/installation on my '16 Rebel.
 

BlownGP

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2wd or 4wd, the exhaust goes under the pan. I've never heard of anyone removing the exhaust. I didn't have any problems with removal/installation on my '16 Rebel.

Ohh ok. I thought when I watched that boosted guy on youtube he didn't have any exhaust pipe under the pan. Maybe he had a custom setup on his exhaust.

Thanks
 

jws123

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So, maybe a dumb question.
I have a 2wd with the exhaust going under the pan. Will I be able to take the pan off without removing the exhaust?

Thanks
I had to take the 3 bolts out of the trans mount jack the transmission up a little to be able to get the pan out.
 

BlownGP

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I had to take the 3 bolts out of the trans mount jack the transmission up a little to be able to get the pan out.

That sounds like fun. I'm going to be using a two post lift so that might be difficult.
 

EdGs

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Crack the fill plug loose BEFORE you dran the trans. Mine was put on by Hercules, I had to use a cheater bar to break it loose.
 

HEMIMANN

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Damn Germans & Japanese design to 12 Sigma and can't get service right after 30 years of perfecting design work.

Then again, U.S. companies went and out-sourced most machinery. Hence a ZF instead of a new RFE. Still unsure what to make of that "Allison" / GM / Ford 10 speed contraption. Sounds too complex and prone to never-ending issues.

Just like when the U.S. Navy had to cancel the Zumwalt class destroyers because it took the contractors 3 years just to get the quadrillion-line software codes to halfway work. Software bro's out of control with no Chief Engineer oversight has delivered these wonders to us.
 

andymax

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CONFUSED..PLEASE HELP. I'm in the middle of the fluid replacement. Hangman and at least one other say to raise the rear of the truck to get the tranmission perfectly level, which requires the rear tires be off the ground by 9 inches! If I watch the videos, not one single video for ANY ZF 8speeds require this step...only that the Vehicle is level, whether lifted off the ground or not. So anyone KNOW which is correct?
 

jws123

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CONFUSED..PLEASE HELP. I'm in the middle of the fluid replacement. Hangman and at least one other say to raise the rear of the truck to get the tranmission perfectly level, which requires the rear tires be off the ground by 9 inches! If I watch the videos, not one single video for ANY ZF 8speeds require this step...only that the Vehicle is level, whether lifted off the ground or not. So anyone KNOW which is correct?
The trans needs to be level some use a driveway with A incline mine was a pain in the ass to do used 2 large jacks. Just use a small level on the trans surface where the pan goes before putting the pan back up I honestly hate this trans miss my 5 speed with dip stick on my 2011 only upside is better mpg.
 
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BlownGP

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The trans needs to be level some use a driveway with A incline mine was a pain in the ass to do used to large jacks. Just use a small level on the trans surface where the pan goes before putting the pan back up I honestly hate this trans miss my 5 speed with dip stick on my 2011 only upside is better mpg.

hahaahaha...

Funny you say that. Other than my 09 having a lot of miles. The real reason I got my 2018 was for ZF trans. Everyone said how bad ass it is and how faster the truck felt. Like you I miss my old 5 speed too. Installed a 4x4 dorman pan with the drain plug and I did drain and fills once a year. Don in 20 minutes.
 
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