When Not to Use Redline Thread

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Burla

Burla

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This is mos2 tipped over along with lubegard, so you are saying it wouldnt have any wet powdery look to it like this?

49473444153_370cd4eecd_z-jpg.jpg
 

Ghost1500

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so you are saying it wouldn't have any wet powdery look to it like this?

No, it looks nothing like neither one. Their lifter additive look like a good ole' quart of Quaker State, just at a 15W40 weight. It's only 300ml anyway. It also keeps oil valleys clean too. It's a win-win for sure.

Best regards,

-Mike
 

Ghost1500

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This is what Liqui Moly say's it does:

Prevents and reduces hydraulic lifter noise. Cleans oil passages to remove oil flow restrictions. Restores proper hydraulic lifter function and reduces wear.

• damps hydraulic tappet noise
• cleans valve bores
• improves the lubrication properties of the oil

Br,

-Mike
 

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The acid test is start it for a minute,then shut it off,let sit for an hour and restart it,if it's quiet then,you might be onto to something
I did this exact test today and had absolutely no tick. I honestly didn't think I'd get one with this test. I let it sit for a week and no tick, I even repeated it. Seems like this stuff is quite legit. Two thumbs up!


Best regards,

-Mike
 

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What I need is warm idle audio after a decent trip w/o throttle for a couple minutes. From what I can tell, the truck sounds pretty good. Usually my ear phones are pretty good noise canceling, but for some reason I am getting some unkwown noise to me, but if you can capture just your hemi at warm idle that would be helpful. Take audio from underneath engine at warm idle.

There is two parts to your question, not a simple part as in what should we use for a high mileage engine, but you add 1. Proactively protect against the Hemi tick, and 2. Ensure this engine's long healthy life. At 147k miles, what would be absolutely great to go with that under engine warm idle is a uoa from blackstone. Those two items would really tell you where your engine is at, it is the perfect time to do so. If you do so make sure you fill sample tube, get tbn if you want to test interval, what oil change interval are you on?

If you want a general answer to your question, lubegard biotech added to any shelf group 3 oil even castrol high mileage turns that oil into an oil with 100ppm more of moly and all of the other metal protecting additives such as zddp and great ester base oil which also protects metal more then the standard group 3 oils. I'd read the oil filter thread as well, chose the large size filters that will likely go into bypass less and/or give better psi. I prefer royal purple 20-820 which is clone with amsoil ea filters but fram ultra just got a boost as another top choice as well. Cant go wrong there either way.

There is a risk to using redline in a high mileage engine if you have hemi tick. I'm not in love with moving to redline with a truck 147k miles as well. But if the question is how do you best protect your cam then the answer will always be redline. What I have seen this oil do on the board and to my truck defy;s logic and changed what I know about oil. The jury is out, the verdict is in, a decades worth of data has been complied over a decade, meaning it is pretty fricking credible. Look at the poll results on redline and lubegard, and beyond the polls we have a running tally here that also mirrored the results of the poll, this oil has an 80% success rate at killing hemi tick. Mind you those engines were running other oils, meaning redline kills ticks 80% of random oils didnt. Lubegard is about 50% success rate.

Let me know when you do those other things or if you have more specific question.
This!
Burla, I’m driving a 2012 hemi with 174K miles…ticks for about 30 seconds on cold start (50/60 degrees) a bit shorter when it’s a warm start. Winter cold start will touch low 30‘s Rarely
my main objective is the longevity of motor, does RL with RP filter address this adequately?
 
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This!
Burla, I’m driving a 2012 hemi with 174K miles…ticks for about 30 seconds on cold start (50/60 degrees) a bit shorter when it’s a warm start. Winter cold start will touch low 30‘s Rarely
my main objective is the longevity of motor, does RL with RP filter address this adequately?
There is no absolute answer as in yes it will work, sometimes it will not. In "theory" yes if it is lifter related the additives and features of that filter should address this. It has cured many rams with this symptom, the one caviet if the trucks sits for long periods, that seams to be where the tick beats any lubrication strategy. I would verify it is not exhaust bolts, that indeed is roughly 1/2 of hemi ticks, the other half is lifters.
 

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I’ll check the ex manifolds with a stethoscope, my tick eminates from the drivers side only as best as I can tell. I’ve checked the heat shields, no movement at all.
Any personal thoughts on PUP High Mileage in my application?
 
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Not a large sample size here, not reported anyhow. This is a specific thread, the syn thread is catch all, maybe someone else knows. PUP is good oil imo, good moly is their HM oils. There is next to zero info on it as a tick killer.
 

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I find this all very interesting. Has there ever been the case of someone that developed tick. Used a lubrication strategy that kept the tick at bay for some time. And eventually the motor was taken apart whether it was due to something eventually falling and or just to swap out parts. And to see what the carnage actually was if there even was any? Really curious if it is the bearings in the lifters that are possible culprits that something in redline is able to fix or something else specifically.
 

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Not a large sample size here, not reported anyhow. This is a specific thread, the syn thread is catch all, maybe someone else knows. PUP is good oil imo, good moly is their HM oils. There is next to zero info on it as a tick killer.

Do you recall if regular PUP (not HM) had sufficient tick-killing moly additive? I thought it was around 40 ppm or so, and needed Lube Gard boost.

Owners wouldn't want to use High Mileage formulation for non-high mileage vehicles due to seal-sweller additization (may be higher ester content?). Can cause early seal wear and make it leak more later.
 

ramffml

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I find this all very interesting. Has there ever been the case of someone that developed tick. Used a lubrication strategy that kept the tick at bay for some time. And eventually the motor was taken apart whether it was due to something eventually falling and or just to swap out parts. And to see what the carnage actually was if there even was any? Really curious if it is the bearings in the lifters that are possible culprits that something in redline is able to fix or something else specifically.

Not that I'm aware of.

I suggest we vote on it and ask Burla to rip into his engine. For science. I'll donate $20 for the cause as I'm feeling particularly cheerful this fine summer morning.
 

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@Burla skimmed through the thread and not sure if my situation was covered. Would appreciate an opinion.

2012 5.7L - 125k miles currently - as 2nd owner, I put about 40k on it using Mobil1 5w20 (original owner claimed to use same oil).

My truck is now down for repair after common lifter/cam failure.

After the repair, I was planning to start using the recommended Redline 5w/30 from overall reading and awareness on this forum, but this thread has me unsure now.

Any suggestions?

thanks
S
 
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This thread was created to educate the people on risks surrounding using redline in certain situations. What is the risk of not using it? You are living it. You just replaced a cam/lifters at 120k miles. If not redline then what, go back to the oil that killed your cam in the first place? Not actually saying it was m1's fault, but that oil is not built with protecting metal in their formula. If an "oil guy" tells you to run a low additive oil made with fuel mileage goals as the driving force in the formula and a second goal of resource conserving, he is doing you a disservice. I would suggest moving to redline 5w30 and try to get some 20-820's when they become available, or get a couple rp 20-500 till you can get those filters, right now amazon has the 20-500 11.99, I'd get a couple. Being that you are in so cal, that erases one of the main risks of cold piston slap. I'd drive a little while on whatever oil they have in there after the cam swap. Then I'd run 5w30 redline for life if I could, it is the one formula that has the proof of ram forum that it kills hemi tick at 80% rate. If you have a better oil suggestion I am all ears, but nothing is more proven at this point. In theory there are other options we are and have explored, with some success, but this strategy is proven and time tested. My hemi tick ram has been drinking this brand for over a decade and every 5w30 and 5w20 run my ram was dead silent except for one time with a poor filter. In an aging ram like yours, 20 weight is no longer the correct move imo, tolerances are widening time to fill them up with a nice stout 5w30. Peace Burla
 

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I'd offer to open my engine up, but lets be honest, with my garage skills it'd be like watching a monkey on a skateboard.
 

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Not a large sample size here, not reported anyhow. This is a specific thread, the syn thread is catch all, maybe someone else knows. PUP is good oil imo, good moly is their HM oils. There is next to zero info on it as a tick killer.
"Moly", or more specifically, MoS2/ Molybdenum Disulfide, is a very effective lubricant enhancer. It's been used for a long time, at least in my memory. Look up "Vanderwaals force" for some interesting insight as to it's application in this effectiveness.
It seems that, at the molecular level, "moly" would be effective in mitigating tick.
 
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