2016 Ram 1500 E-fan?

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HEMI-FI

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If you are using hp tuners you might be able to enable it and copy over the pwm table from a pentastart truck. That is what we did for my sierra. I know I know different maker. We modified the table from a camero and used it. The theory might work with the rams. Change the port to pwm and get the table from a pentastar truck.

My stock read

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B26307CE-1C13-4DB0-9541-0720626059C9.jpeg
 
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If you are using hp tuners you might be able to enable it and copy over the pwm table from a pentastart truck. That is what we did for my sierra. I know I know different maker. We modified the table from a camero and used it. The theory might work with the rams. Change the port to pwm and get the table from a pentastar truck.

When you did the swap on the Sierra did you have to do any OS segment swap or was it a matter of enabling it?
 

icetraxx

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It was just a matter of enabling it and loading a temp table. as far as I can remember. I do remember it was a different port on the coming off the pcm. I had to install a wire into the harness



When you did the swap on the Sierra did you have to do any OS segment swap or was it a matter of enabling it?
 
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It was just a matter of enabling it and loading a temp table. as far as I can remember. I do remember it was a different port on the coming off the pcm. I had to install a wire into the harness

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new unlocked PCM from HP Tuners, in the meantime I bought the Dorman 3.7 fan and swapped my fan motor over to it with the 3.7's larger fan blade so the harness would reach. The Dorman version is better quality than the TYC that I had on my 2016, to bad the shroud was cracked right out of the box from Summit racing. Once I get the PCM installed and the unlock credits I'll mess with this more, I might just buy the 3.6 fan, enable the PWM and set the tables up just like the 3.6 Ram, I'll temporarly give the fan power and run the low speed fan relay control wire from 82 on fuse box and see if it turns the fan on.
 
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I just logged into Techauthority to look at the newer Ram to see which pin on the PCM it uses to run the 5.7's PWM fan as that is standard on the later model and it's pin 82 as well.
 

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  • Ram 5.7 DT cooling.pdf
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icetraxx

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Humm Looking at the NBS cooling that you posted. The new fans have direct power from the battery that is not switched via relay. So it looks like they have consistent power. Port 82 is also a direct connection to the fan. The same is for the 3.6 pentastar see in the attache pic. However Port82 on the 5.7 goes through a relay. I wonder if port 82 is wired directly to the 3rd wire on the pentastar fan and the PCM is set to PWM it would work. However looking at the '17 schematic it looks like port 82 controls when the fan actually comes on. Port 78 is the one that that turns on the power to the fan??

I wonder if the reason it is not working is because of the relays being used in the '18's and below. I wonder if we set port 82 to pwm and wire it directly to the 3rd wire on the fan as well as give the fan direct power from the battery if it will work.

3.6.JPG

5.7.JPG
 
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I have a pretty good understanding how the PWM
Humm Looking at the NBS cooling that you posted. The new fans have direct power from the battery that is not switched via relay. So it looks like they have consistent power. Port 82 is also a direct connection to the fan. The same is for the 3.6 pentastar see in the attache pic. However Port82 on the 5.7 goes through a relay. I wonder if port 82 is wired directly to the 3rd wire on the pentastar fan and the PCM is set to PWM it would work. However looking at the '17 schematic it looks like port 82 controls when the fan actually comes on. Port 78 is the one that that turns on the power to the fan??

I wonder if the reason it is not working is because of the relays being used in the '18's and below. I wonder if we set port 82 to pwm and wire it directly to the 3rd wire on the fan as well as give the fan direct power from the battery if it will work.

View attachment 203040

View attachment 203041

works and on the fuse box

I have a pretty good understanding how the PWM fan works and in the fuse box the fan has a 80 amp fuse that goes straight to the fan from battery power, the fan gets a ground from the chassis, then pin 82 comes straight from the PCM to the fan, I didn't see any relays in series with that circuit. The 5.7 circuit is using pin 82 to control the low speed fan relay that is not used but I believe is still powered, So I believe if you take 82 straight to the fan sensing circuit and then plug in the connector in the back of the fuse box for the 80 amp PWM fuse and then run to fan power and of course do the programing.
 

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I have a pretty good understanding how the PWM works and on the fuse box
I have a pretty good understanding how the PWM fan works and in the fuse box the fan has a 80 amp fuse that goes straight to the fan from battery power, the fan gets a ground from the chassis, then pin 82 comes straight from the PCM to the fan, I didn't see any relays in series with that circuit.
I doubt you could get a relay to switch fast enough to control a PWN fan properly, so it needs to be wired directly to the fan motor. You would need a an oscilloscope or a meter capable of reading duty cycle to measure a PWM signal. It's capable of controlling the fan from stop all the way through full speed.
The DT trucks use the same 850 watt radiator fan motor as the Gen4 EcoD, even the same 100 fuse direct from the battery.
 
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I doubt you could get a relay to switch fast enough to control a PWN fan properly, so it needs to be wired directly to the fan motor. You would need a an oscilloscope or a meter capable of reading duty cycle to measure a PWM signal. It's capable of controlling the fan from stop all the way through full speed.
The DT trucks use the same 850 watt radiator fan motor as the Gen4 EcoD, even the same 100 fuse direct from the battery.

I agree there should definitely not be a relay on the PWM control circuit from the PCM nor the power to the fan.
 
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I doubt you could get a relay to switch fast enough to control a PWN fan properly, so it needs to be wired directly to the fan motor. You would need a an oscilloscope or a meter capable of reading duty cycle to measure a PWM signal. It's capable of controlling the fan from stop all the way through full speed.
The DT trucks use the same 850 watt radiator fan motor as the Gen4 EcoD, even the same 100 fuse direct from the battery.

I wonder if you used the 100 amp DT fan if the alternator would have to be upgraded.
 
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Not sure why there is 6 different part numbers for the DT 5.7 fan.
 

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crash68

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I wonder if you used the 100 amp DT fan if the alternator would have to be upgraded.
That would probably depend on how hard your working the fan. For short burst while driving probably won't notice need for a larger alternator. If you are towing a heavy load a grade, a larger alternator might help but unless there is something else drawing a large consistent load the Hemi 180 amp alternator will most likely be fine. The EcoD has a 220 amp alternator but also has glow plugs(60 amps) and 3 electric PTC heaters fused at 50 amps in the HVAC system.
The EcoD battery is 800 CCA slightly larger than the 730 CCA in the Hemi. That's probably due in part to the glow plugs and the higher current draw of the starter.
 

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Not sure why there is 6 different part numbers for the DT 5.7 fan.
There is two different part numbers with three revisions each, if you look at the engine code, one is most likely for the gassers 3.6L, 5.7, and 5.7 w/eTorque, the other engine code is most likely the new EcoD. A while back on another forum, someone posted a picture of the back of the fan motor on the DT Hemi, it matched what was in my EcoD
The fan comes as an entire assembly, shroud and all.
 

Wild one

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Kind of curious Hemi-fi what you think you'll gain in cooling benefits running a PWM fan,over and above throwing a 180 thermostat in the engine and using the stock fan.This seems to be a bunch of work and money just to run the fan on a low speed circuit. My 14 has a high speed and low speed fan relay with a relay on both circuits,and I know for a fact if you jump the low speed relay the fan cycles in on a lower speed ,as that's the circuit I jump at the track to keep the fan running between rounds or when i'm in the pits.The high speed side will kill the battery faster then I want,so I use the low speed side of the relay circuits.
 
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PWM is better and i won't be installing a 180 TH in mine, I did that on my 16 Ram and it killed my gas mileage.
 

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I know the EcoD takes in account the coolant temp, oil temp, trans temp, and refrigerant pressure if memory serves me correctly to determine how fast to spool the fan.
The only benefits would be more consistent temps, less power draw and quieter than an on/off fan.
 

Wild one

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PWM is better and i won't be installing a 180 TH in mine, I did that on my 16 Ram and it killed my gas mileage.

I'm not saying it isn't better,but I am curious on whether you think it'll cool any better then the stock set-up. You're wanting to swap in 3.92 gears and you're worried about a 180 thermostat hurting your milege,doesn't make much sense to me,the gears are going to hurt your milege more then a 180 thermostat,lol. You're the first guy I've heard who claims a 180 T-stat killed their milege,the trucks are pretty well in closed loop mode at 160. I've ran 180 thermostats in my last 4 Hemi's,and have never had any of them show a noticeable change in milege, my wifes old 2016 5.7 Challenger would pull down 30+ mpg when touring around back roads at 50 mph.I could see a small drop in milege maybe,but to claim a 180 t-stat "killed" your milege is very questionable. BTW the film strength of oil is a bit better if the oil is cooler,i'd rather give up a little milege then replace the cam and lifters that much sooner,lol
 

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Y’all are funny. So much work. Why not do what I did? I am running a pwm module and controlling the v6 fan on my truck. Been this way for over a year now and no issues. It has a Internal switch that ties into the ac to run it full blast with your ac, tied into switched power and a constant hot. Fan ties directly into the battery using a fusible link. Uses a separate temp sensor on the output of the radiator and temp on is adjustable. I have since since up the wiring to the controller. No check engine light or anything. Factory plug is still there in case I want to switch back. Temps are solid. Fan hardly runs if I’m driving unless the ac is on.

BC22413E-B6CE-49D2-B4F0-BF5A9A5FAEBB.jpeg
 
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Y’all are funny. So much work. Why not do what I did? I am running a pwm module and controlling the v6 fan on my truck. Been this way for over a year now and no issues. It has a Internal switch that ties into the ac to run it full blast with your ac, tied into switched power and a constant hot. Fan ties directly into the battery using a fusible link. Uses a separate temp sensor on the output of the radiator and temp on is adjustable. I have since since up the wiring to the controller. No check engine light or anything. Factory plug is still there in case I want to switch back. Temps are solid. Fan hardly runs if I’m driving unless the ac is on.

View attachment 203066

I think at this point I will be doing it just to prove it can be done, Ha!
 
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