AlfaOBD

[FF02HESKIE]

Verify your steps against the instructions here

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xQvdHVTgRwKQRKSBh1K2rkCqg5dlpSi0

Did your truck already have the plug for the latch?

Verify that pin 11 in the c1 connector is populated





2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman

Thanks 1500Ram12 and Ricks Ram! Super detailed instructions!! I pulled BCM plug and pin 11 is not populated... My truck had the plug for the latch but only came with the standard hood latch. I looked for the taped wire as shown in your picture but did not see one. Im going to remove the factory black tape wrapping the wire to see if its hidden under the tape, but if I have no wire do I have to run a new wire all the way from the new latch? Ive heard some people refer to grounding pin 11 but not sure what that means? Electrical work is not my strong point but im pretty mechanical. Ive made it this far and even figured out how to pull the BCM plug by pushing that little nub and rotating the lock upwards haha. That was tricky. If you guys can advise me what you think would be best i would really appreciate it! Im gonna look for the purple/blue or purple/brown wire underneath all the tape on the plug I pulled for now. I remember someone saying there is a wiring kit that some people buy with the hood latch but i think that is if you dont have the plug that connects to new latch right?

I really appreciate all of your help

 

[Gixxer750]

I agree more that we sell the more he will pay attention to us Ram guys. I need him to do DRL brightness! I dont want my factory LEDs running at full burn all day.

Set the voltage. If you have the style I'm thinking

 

[Gixxer750]

I am assuming you have projector headlights. With these settings the truck will actually use the dedicated DRL feature and run the turn signals at a reduced voltage. You can verify this because when you hit the turn signal the light will get brighter then drop out the DRL and start flashing the turn.
Mine just drops out every other LED In the row. That's the brightness change. It not a 12.3 vs 14.4v thing.setting target voltage is getting rid of the PWM Also
These settings worked great for me when I was running my factory projectors.

CBC I/O right dedicated DRL Lamp output preset - YES
CBC I/O left dedicated DRL lamp output present - YES
CBC DRL config -OPTIONAL DRL
CBC features - DRL lamp location- DEDICATED
CBC features- DRL dropout enable- YES
CBC features LED dedicated DRL present- YES
ECU Config- DRL customer settings enable/disable- YES
Daytime Running light CSM- YES

 

[1500ram12]

Thanks 1500Ram12 and Ricks Ram! Super detailed instructions!! I pulled BCM plug and pin 11 is not populated... My truck had the plug for the latch but only came with the standard hood latch. I looked for the taped wire as shown in your picture but did not see one. Im going to remove the factory black tape wrapping the wire to see if its hidden under the tape, but if I have no wire do I have to run a new wire all the way from the new latch? Ive heard some people refer to grounding pin 11 but not sure what that means? Electrical work is not my strong point but im pretty mechanical. Ive made it this far and even figured out how to pull the BCM plug by pushing that little nub and rotating the lock upwards haha. That was tricky. If you guys can advise me what you think would be best i would really appreciate it! Im gonna look for the purple/blue or purple/brown wire underneath all the tape on the plug I pulled for now. I remember someone saying there is a wiring kit that some people buy with the hood latch but i think that is if you dont have the plug that connects to new latch right?

I really appreciate all of your help

Thanks 1500Ram12 and Ricks Ram! Super detailed instructions!! I pulled BCM plug and pin 11 is not populated... My truck had the plug for the latch but only came with the standard hood latch. I looked for the taped wire as shown in your picture but did not see one. Im going to remove the factory black tape wrapping the wire to see if its hidden under the tape, but if I have no wire do I have to run a new wire all the way from the new latch? Ive heard some people refer to grounding pin 11 but not sure what that means? Electrical work is not my strong point but im pretty mechanical. Ive made it this far and even figured out how to pull the BCM plug by pushing that little nub and rotating the lock upwards haha. That was tricky. If you guys can advise me what you think would be best i would really appreciate it! Im gonna look for the purple/blue or purple/brown wire underneath all the tape on the plug I pulled for now. I remember someone saying there is a wiring kit that some people buy with the hood latch but i think that is if you dont have the plug that connects to new latch right?

I really appreciate all of your help

Basically when people say ground pin 11, it means if your truck had pin 11 populated that wire runs to a connector under the fuse box. You can either tap into the wire there and ground it to the nearest ground or under the dash at the bcm cut that wire, add a extension piece and ground it by the parking break. By doing this you are tricking the bcm into thinking that the hood is always closed. Since you don't have pin 11 populated you can try to insert a wire into that slot and hope that it always makes a connection or order the correct pin https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/829-13627884-L?r=829-13627884-L

I'm not sure about getting just the wiring to go from the hood latch to the bcm. Someone did post something about a harness but not sure if it was what you would need.


2018 Ram 2500 6.4L Hemi Tradesman

 

[Syciu]

can you turn off auto-closing - if you open the car with the remote control and do not open the door then the car will close after a while - can you turn it off?

 

[Ricks Ram]

can you turn off auto-closing - if you open the car with the remote control and do not open the door then the car will close after a while - can you turn it off?

I have seen this in the Alfa tool but I haven't messed with it. You may be able to change the time of how long it takes to re lock but I'm not sure if you can completely disable it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Ricks Ram]

I have seen this in the Alfa tool but I haven't messed with it. You may be able to change the time of how long it takes to re lock but I'm not sure if you can completely disable it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Here is a pic of the setting in Alfa.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[RedSRT4Me]

I was able to get DRL's running on my father's 2013 town and country using the same settings as my 2015ram 1500.

Appreciate all the help guys.

 

[suave19]

There are two codes to turn on the vented seats. One is in Ecu config#3 Front vented seats present and the other is in Memory front vented seats present. One thing to note is the vented seats will not work unless you have the 8.4" radio. These are the pictures of the settings in the Alfa tool.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Thanks. I probably have to reset the radio because its not showing the image on there

 

[Potatomafia]

I was having issues when I swapped in non-CANBUS LEDs in my front turn signals with hyper flashing and bulb out warnings. I changed all of the front turn signal/marker light settings in AlfaOBD to LED but the truck just didn't like the bulbs. It was fine during the day but as soon as the headlights came on, boom, light out warnings. I just learned to live with it.

I had to disconnect the battery when I did the steering wheel radio switch install. After hooking the battery back up, the light out warnings stopped occurring. Its the damnedest thing. I didn't change anything. The truck seems perfectly fine now. I'm not complaining LOL.

 

[Potatomafia]

Stupid browser crashed. Double post.

 

[joelmic]

I was having issues when I swapped in non-CANBUS LEDs in my front turn signals with hyper flashing and bulb out warnings. I changed all of the front turn signal/marker light settings in AlfaOBD to LED but the truck just didn't like the bulbs. It was fine during the day but as soon as the headlights came on, boom, light out warnings. I just learned to live with it.

I had to disconnect the battery when I did the steering wheel radio switch install. After hooking the battery back up, the light out warnings stopped occurring. Its the damnedest thing. I didn't change anything. The truck seems perfectly fine now. I'm not complaining LOL.

So the Question is: if this is going to be a trick to be tried for stubborn light errors, (my rears never took so I just added resistors but maybe I should try this) then what is the time suggested to KEEP the battery unhooked???
Does a Ram go into "sleep" mode like a Ford does??

 

[crash68]

Does a Ram go into "sleep" mode like a Ford does??

My buddy who's a Dodge mechanic has told me it takes 2-3 minutes for a vehicle to "go to sleep" after you shut it off and get out of the vehicle.
Any changes I've made with AlfaOBD, I have always used the @big daddys house patent pending and trademarked 5 minute sleep timer. :-D

 

[SitKneelBend]

When I entered the km value that I needed, which today is 162054.9 the odometer initially changed to 26071.

Thinking that I am running out of things to try, I decided to try and set the odometer to 26071, and finally, I got it to change values. It jumped to 41958, so followed the trail and attempted to set it to that number and it changed to 67525. Again entered that value and it jumped to 108671. I can't seem to find that pattern and this is where my changes stopped. No matter the value I enter the odometer is constantly showing 108671.

Still tinkering, and hoping someone else has seen something like this before.

Hey, you're essentially getting the mileage put in and converted to kilometers.

So you want it in kilometers. Take the current reading of your odometer, convert that to MILES and enter the MILES to the tenth into AlfaOBD. You should land on the proper kilometer reading.

Conversely, change the readout to MPH to get the miles from the cluster itself...

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

 

[NovaScotia Ram]

Hey, you're essentially getting the mileage put in and converted to kilometers.

So you want it in kilometers. Take the current reading of your odometer, convert that to MILES and enter the MILES to the tenth into AlfaOBD. You should land on the proper kilometer reading.

Conversely, change the readout to MPH to get the miles from the cluster itself...

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Your comment got me thinking, one of the only things that I haven't tried is to switch the cluster from km/h to mph. I just got out of the truck. It switched right away to the US readout, but still wouldn't accept the mileage.

Right now I have it reading 0 km or miles. When I try and input the correct value, either 162XXX km or 100XXXmiles, it stays at 0.

 

[SitKneelBend]

Your comment got me thinking, one of the only things that I haven't tried is to switch the cluster from km/h to mph. I just got out of the truck. It switched right away to the US readout, but still wouldn't accept the mileage.

Right now I have it reading 0 km or miles. When I try and input the correct value, either 162XXX km or 100XXXmiles, it stays at 0.

Well the last numbers you reported were exactly the miles to kilometers conversion so entering the value in miles should give you the expected value in kilometers (or vice versa whichever way you need it to go)...

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

 

[NovaScotia Ram]

Well the last numbers you reported were exactly the miles to kilometers conversion so entering the value in miles should give you the expected value in kilometers (or vice versa whichever way you need it to go)...

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

I can't describe the joy that just came over me when I confirmed that the values are exactly the mileage input and km output. I have been staring at the numbers trying to figure out the pattern, and it's always the simplest. Thank you for that.

The numbers now make sense to me, so my issue currently is that it will only accept certain values.

I need 162398.6 km or 100910 miles, neither of which are accepted inputs.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I can't describe the joy that just came over me when I confirmed that the values are exactly the mileage input and km output. I have been staring at the numbers trying to figure out the pattern, and it's always the simplest. Thank you for that.

The numbers now make sense to me, so my issue currently is that it will only accept certain values.

I need 162398.6 km or 100910 miles, neither of which are accepted inputs.

Have you tried setting it to MPH, programming miles and the switching to KPH?

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

 

[NovaScotia Ram]

Have you tried setting it to MPH, programming miles and the switching to KPH?

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

I have it set right now to US settings so odometer is in miles. Hoping that it is the fix. It hasn't worked yet but I am trying a few more times.

 

[SitKneelBend]

I have it set right now to US settings so odometer is in miles. Hoping that it is the fix. It hasn't worked yet but I am trying a few more times.

So with it set to miles, enter the value in miles. If your desired reading in Kilometers is 162000.7 km enter in 100662.6 miles

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk