Do I have a lifter going out? YES, I DO!!!!!!

[EdGs]

Here's the video of my truck idling at operating temp, when filling coolant:

2015 Ram 1500 after Cam and lifter replacement. At operating temp.

My 2015 Ram 1500 201,192 miles Replaced cam, lifters, cam phaser, timing set, MDS solenoids, VVT solenoid, all rocker arms, all valves, all pushrods, all val...

youtu.be

 

[Ken226]

Here's the video of my truck idling at operating temp, when filling coolant:

2015 Ram 1500 after Cam and lifter replacement. At operating temp.

My 2015 Ram 1500 201,192 miles Replaced cam, lifters, cam phaser, timing set, MDS solenoids, VVT solenoid, all rocker arms, all valves, all pushrods, all val...

youtu.be

It sounds great. Nice and quiet!
Awesome work!


I looked at some wiring diagrams and it appears that with the injector plug connected to the alternator, the injector control wire was connected to the alternators field input pin and the injectors 12v power supply was connected to the alternators voltage sensing circuit.

So, basically, you did no damage at all.

Your PCM was grounding out the alternators field input at about 300x per minute, and putting 12v on the sensing circuit. So the alternator would have interpreted that message as -the system is fully charged, so effectively turned off the charging output.

 

[EdGs]

It sounds great. Nice and quiet!
Awesome work!


I looked at some wiring diagrams and it appears that with the injector plug connected to the alternator, the injector control wire was connected to the alternators field input pin and the injectors 12v power supply was connected to the alternators voltage sensing circuit.

So, basically, you did no damage at all.

Your PCM was grounding out the alternators field input at about 300x per minute, and putting 12v on the sensing circuit. So the alternator would have interpreted that message as -the system is fully charged, so effectively turned off the charging output.

Thank you for looking into that, Ken. It makes me feel alot better about it.

I was very surprised and pleased how quiet my engine is after this repair. I hope it holds up well.

This is only the 2nd time I've been into an engine repair, the other was head gaskets on an '02 Ram 1500 4.7. This one was by far, much more involved. I could not have done it without the help from you and everyone else that shared their knowledge on this site.

Thank you all so, so much.

Now, I have a catch can, a PPE pan, and a Pulsar Module to install (thank you, @JHoward).

Stay tuned......

 

[G-Ride990]

Here's the video of my truck idling at operating temp, when filling coolant:

2015 Ram 1500 after Cam and lifter replacement. At operating temp.

My 2015 Ram 1500 201,192 miles Replaced cam, lifters, cam phaser, timing set, MDS solenoids, VVT solenoid, all rocker arms, all valves, all pushrods, all val...

youtu.be

Sounds quieter than my 2022 with 30k miles.

Nice job!

 

[BadHemi2014]

Congratulations Ed! I've quietly followed your saga from the beginning. Impatiently waiting for this day haha. Seriously, good job. She sounds fantastic.

 

[Adamcr68]

I ran it about 10 minutes, had a low tire, couldn't see anything in it, aired it up.

Only got to go about 35 on a couple streets by my house, will take it to church tomorrow, about 25 miles away.

I havent driven her in so long, she seems sluggish, but I know it's just me. No check engine light, good oil pressure too. Was gonna change this oil right away, but will run it tomorrow and maybe monday, that'll be 100 miles roughly.

Congratulations! Happy to see your success, not surprised after following this thread, you definitely deserve this outcome after your hard work & attention to detail throughout the process.

 

[Sj ram 1500]

Congratulations Ed, the hard work you put into that engine you should get another 200k out of it

 

[EdGs]

DId my oil change yesterday evening. I had put about 60 miles on the initial fill. Refilled with Supertech 5W-30 conventional and a Fram TG2 filter.

The initial oil was a bit darker than I thought it would be, and when I poured off the drained oil into the empty containers, there was only about 6-1/4 qts.

I do not believe I am burning oil, no smoke at exhaust, no puddles below my engine, and no hot burning oil smell either. I'm gonna chalk it up to residuals still inside the motor nooks and crannies, and check my oil level often.

I do have a question about catch cans, though.
I got a sweet billet catch can (thank you @JHoward), but for the life of me I cannot get the hose that was supplied with it to go inside the dress-up sleeves that came with it.

I know I can leave the sleeves off, but they make the hose ends look so nice. They fit nicely over some Gates 1/2" safety stripe heater hose I have, can I use that hose instead?

I've read that heater hose is not good to use, but the material specs of the Gates hose is EPDM rubber which has some chemical resistance.

I have a 1" long piece of the Gates hose submerged in 5W-30 as we speak, going to see if I notice any degradation.

Thoughts on this?

 

[Wild one]

DId my oil change yesterday evening. I had put about 60 miles on the initial fill. Refilled with Supertech 5W-30 conventional and a Fram TG2 filter.

The initial oil was a bit darker than I thought it would be, and when I poured off the drained oil into the empty containers, there was only about 6-1/4 qts.

I do not believe I am burning oil, no smoke at exhaust, no puddles below my engine, and no hot burning oil smell either. I'm gonna chalk it up to residuals still inside the motor nooks and crannies, and check my oil level often.

I do have a question about catch cans, though.
I got a sweet billet catch can (thank you @JHoward), but for the life of me I cannot get the hose that was supplied with it to go inside the dress-up sleeves that came with it.

I know I can leave the sleeves off, but they make the hose ends look so nice. They fit nicely over some Gates 1/2" safety stripe heater hose I have, can I use that hose instead?

I've read that heater hose is not good to use, but the material specs of the Gates hose is EPDM rubber which has some chemical resistance.

I have a 1" long piece of the Gates hose submerged in 5W-30 as we speak, going to see if I notice any degradation.

Thoughts on this?

You can use it,but keep an eye on whether it looks like it's collasping when hot with the truck running.

 

[EdGs]

Will do! Almost tempted to slip a lenth of 1/2" OD extension spring stock into the hose first.

She will never collapse then.

 

[JHoward]

Will do! Almost tempted to slip a lenth of 1/2" OD extension spring stock into the hose first.

She will never collapse then.

Hmm, I don't know if that would be a good thing to do defeating the purpose of the "oil catch can" in itself as there won't be a free flow to the "can", but instead creating an obstruction, building up inside the hose(s) and clogging it/them up ...idk?

I didn't have the hose fitment issue(s) on my two previous RAM trucks using the same Chicom brand oil catch can. I used a dab of synthetic wheel bearing grease to get the hose/dress up sleeves to slip them together, it was a tight fit even using the grease, but I managed to make it work.

 

[JHoward]

Those hoses for the catch can don't have to be heavy duty as that there isn't going to be an enormous amount of pressure to cause the ends to come off, so an oil resistant hose from the local auto parts store would be ok to use and they more than likely will probably have a hose more "user friendly" for the diameter hose barb that came in the kit ...idk.

 

[EdGs]

Yea, I will get a solution for it.

Was thinking out loud about the spring, the ID would still be larger than the ID of the barb fitting, and flow only goes according to the smallest point anyways. The spring would fit inside the hose between the barb and the fittings on the can, pcv, and intake.

I will try the lube with the hose, that just might do it.

 

[EdGs]

Truck ran good today.

Here were my numbers sitting at a light on the way home, about 100 miles since the repair:

I just have the coolant lines to the transmission heat exchanger disconnected and installed a Motorad 192° thermostat. I have not installed @caulk04's bypass yet.

 

[EdGs]

Ok, one thing I noticed driving home today:

At full hot, stopped for a light, my idle would drop to a little over the 500 rpm mark on the dial, and my oil pressure would drop as well to 40 psi on the evic.

Idle still smooth.

If I shift to neutral, my rpm would increase to ~600, and my psi would increase a few psi. I have a hellcat oil pump with the relief spring from my stock oil pump.

This is not new, before my cam job, with the stock oil pump, my pressure would drop, sometimes to ~34 psi, and also increase rpm and psi a little when shifting to neutral.

Only seems to happen when fully hot, not every time, AFAIK. Oil is thinner with higher temp, lower psi makes sense.

I also realized I did not clean the map sensor or the sensor on the inlet pipe to the throttle body.

Thoughts on this?

 

[Ken226]

Ok, one thing I noticed driving home today:

At full hot, stopped for a light, my idle would drop to a little over the 500 rpm mark on the dial, and my oil pressure would drop as well to 40 psi on the evic.

Idle still smooth.

If I shift to neutral, my rpm would increase to ~600, and my psi would increase a few psi. I have a hellcat oil pump with the relief spring from my stock oil pump.

This is not new, before my cam job, with the stock oil pump, my pressure would drop, sometimes to ~34 psi, and also increase rpm and psi a little when shifting to neutral.

Only seems to happen when fully hot, not every time, AFAIK. Oil is hotter, and thinner with higher temp, lower psi makes sense.

I also realized I did not clean the map sensor or the sensor on the inlet pipe to the throttle body.

Thoughts on this?

Mine idles at about 500-550rpm and about 32psi when at operating temp. If I shift into neutral, it goes up to about 600 as well. So, that all sounds pretty normal.

Except that obviously, your oil pressure is higher at idle.

 

[Wild one]

Ok, one thing I noticed driving home today:

At full hot, stopped for a light, my idle would drop to a little over the 500 rpm mark on the dial, and my oil pressure would drop as well to 40 psi on the evic.

Idle still smooth.

If I shift to neutral, my rpm would increase to ~600, and my psi would increase a few psi. I have a hellcat oil pump with the relief spring from my stock oil pump.

This is not new, before my cam job, with the stock oil pump, my pressure would drop, sometimes to ~34 psi, and also increase rpm and psi a little when shifting to neutral.

Only seems to happen when fully hot, not every time, AFAIK. Oil is hotter, and thinner with higher temp, lower psi makes sense.

I also realized I did not clean the map sensor or the sensor on the inlet pipe to the throttle body.

Thoughts on this?

If they've never been cleaned it's worth giving them a tidy job. Use the proper cleaner on both,the sensor in the intake duct is the IAT /intake air temp sensor

 

[Wild one]

This stuff works good for cleaning both sensors,especially the delicate intake temp sensor

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Sensor-Cleaner-Throttle-Bundle/dp/B0D3LMTZW5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fIjX4owhiniOtBpfP20Qb7v4BwIHwxPjz7S1YYURSTf4AzfBm7Jb9yfRWIjJSvLd4OdwgXaFwjoKgm0UpK-dnVmkhIsz-1I0C1nDwPlHPJwRjhCh2iDGB-HFxGA_bDPjog9OLK0wshdKG3alDaTrcG8wWrrHhZuaAEuPXA9CFQIPC5-U3xw94DSbrZTBR91uadYtu7wfLaLMkiBis0uD5U5DkgGRb168M0nB8ZTqBSI.sRyH_ZsrkkDTPjvuZ9t8LCOugkl7Z_oYhldnjko4duA&dib_tag=se&keywords=mass+air+flow+sensor+cleaner&qid=1762914387&sr=8-1

 

[04fxdwgi]

Ok, one thing I noticed driving home today:

At full hot, stopped for a light, my idle would drop to a little over the 500 rpm mark on the dial, and my oil pressure would drop as well to 40 psi on the evic.

Idle still smooth.

If I shift to neutral, my rpm would increase to ~600, and my psi would increase a few psi. I have a hellcat oil pump with the relief spring from my stock oil pump.

This is not new, before my cam job, with the stock oil pump, my pressure would drop, sometimes to ~34 psi, and also increase rpm and psi a little when shifting to neutral.

Only seems to happen when fully hot, not every time, AFAIK. Oil is hotter, and thinner with higher temp, lower psi makes sense.

I also realized I did not clean the map sensor or the sensor on the inlet pipe to the throttle body.

Thoughts on this?

When I got my truck, it did the same thing about 1.5 seconds after a full stop in drive, 500 -525 RPM and 36-38 psi. After putting on the tune and adjusting to 700 - 725 RPM idle. it steps down to 675-700 after a second now with a little over 40 psi hot. At highway speed and hot, oil pressure is normally 58-59 psi.

Engine internals (cam, lifters, oil pump and such) are all original as far as I know. Just a 91 octane tune w/ some minor changes, low restriction exhaust and a CAI.

 

[Wild one]

@EdGs now that you've got a couple heat cycles on it,it probably wouldn't hurt to re-check the torque on the intake manifold bolts when it's cold.