Lets Talk Nitrous

[redram2007]

So I went ahead and purchased a nitrous kit plus and accessory kit, all I'm lacking is a window switch. I called NX and they recommended the MSD digital window switch. Besides what's included in these two kits is there anything else I need? Any advice for a nitrous newbie? Especially considering my 4.7 still has stock internals. How low should I start out and how high should I go? Etc etc etc.

PROTON PLUS NITROUS SYSTEM W/ 10LB BOTTLE

GEN X 2 ACCESSORY PACKAGE, EFI

Digital RPM Window Switch - 8969

 

[charonblk07]

Looks like you've got everything you really need, not much can be added to that system without going to a plate or two-stage system.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

I have no experience with this, but looks like a NANO system makes nitrous output more stable and easier to tune.

 

[redram2007]

I have no experience with this, but looks like a NANO system makes nitrous output more stable and easier to tune.

So is the NANO kit an add on to your already existing system?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

So is the NANO kit an add on to your already existing system?

Yes, it replaces bottle heaters and stabilizes the output.
Learn about it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=nan...8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7NDKB_enUS531&gws_rd=ssl

 

[redram2007]

I like the sound of this. Seems like a must have in most cases. And since I'm close to maxed out with mods on my 4.7 (except forged internals) nitrous is the best bang for the buck. I got some homework to do.... But I'm already convinced this is going to be my next purchase. Thanks for the heads up!!!

 

[redram2007]

This is what I'm thinking I will need.

3000 Universal Kit | Nano-Nitrous

 

[Redtruck-VA]

That is a good setup IMO. Here are a few more bits and pieces.
nano - JEGS High Performance

 

[charonblk07]

The nano is an awesome system if you're going for every last ounce of performance down the track, run a big shot that chills the bottle faster, or you want to pull every drop of N2O out of the bottle you can before paying to refill it if the place you use only has a blanket refill fee and not per pound. However, I would only recommend someone to get a nano system if they've run nitrous before and know what they want. If you run a bottle heater then you'll rarely have an issue for most runs, but it will make a difference if you only have one bottle and want to make it last. From the cost and ease of use perspectives, buying another bottle and swapping between runs when the bottle starts getting low is a better setup rather than buying a Nano kit.

 

[redram2007]

Thanks for the input. Got some learning to do before installing this kit.

 

[ST-8]

I have a feeling I'm gonna give in an go this route soon. I need to do me some reading.

 

[redram2007]

I have a feeling I'm gonna give in an go this route soon. I need to do me some reading.

If you do decide to let me know and I'll let you know where I got mine. MSRP was 445 for the kit I chose but I managed to get it for 395.

Gotta love the mod bug, once you get bit chances are you're infected lol. Just as soon as you think you're done you find something else. Doesn't matter if it's performance, appearance, or handling it never seems to stop!!!!

 

[redram2007]

Should I go with a momentary micro switch or a window switch?

 

[charonblk07]

I recommend the window switch with the WOT box that way it will always be at WOT and you won't be spraying through the shifts which is what I always recommend unless you've built the truck to handle the juice. If you're not careful youare at a higher risk of a nitrous backfire if you don't use a window switch, but I personally just spray through the shifts because I can keep an eye on the AFRs in both banks and the first sign of an issue and I'm off the throttle.

 

[redram2007]

I guess I meant a push button to spray at will. But of course between 3k-6k RPM.

 

[redram2007]

I am slowly installing my NX system in my 07 1500 4.7 and need some help with the wiring. I also purchased a NX GenX2 acc kit (which includes a purge kit, FPSS, bottle heater and miscellaneous parts), MSD 8969 window switch, MSD 8913 tach driver, billet bottle bracket, and I'm about to purchase a tps activation switch instead of using the mechanical WOT micro switch.

The problem I'm having is trying to figure out how to get a good clean tach signal. I have read that I won't be able to connect to a single coil or injector bc the injectors and coils are on the same circuit. Autometer says that on our trucks you have to splice all 8 coils and basically make a harness to connect the tach adapter to the window switch on their 9117 tach adapter. According to MSD one tech says it will work off of one coil and another that's no longer there posted on their forum that you have to cut all of the coils to make it work.

Below is the thread on MSD forum that someone started years ago that I brought back to life and didn't get an educated answer. I also included the instructions for the Autometer 9117 and my coil and injector wiring diagram on that forum. Here is a link to summit with the MSD 8913 institutions as well. As you will see autometer shows instructions for Dodge but MSD doesn't.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8913

https://www.msdignition.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1399

 

[Redtruck-VA]

A couple years ago I installed the AutoMeter 9117 and rewired the coil side on the passenger side. I think you will find the 4.7 and 5.7 basically same with how the coil/ injectors are wired. There is a common 12vdc source from the ASD relay. They separate into injectors and coils at the front of the engine and then separate again for the passenger and driver side as separate harnesses. The coil connector as well as the injectors have only two wires. One is the 12vdc source that is constant voltage and the other is the control (driver) wire from the PCM. The power can be supplied any way you like as long as the drivers are going to the correct cylinder. The coils can draw close tor 20amps at WOT, so appropriate wire size needs to be used. Before doing all the wiring I would try tapping one coil and see if that doesn't give you the signal that will work. My bet is it will. Now the down side. When using a signal initiated from the coils or injectors the stock PCM will cut these signals under certain conditions such as RPM limit or hard deceleration. So everything works fine until you hit the rev limiter. I have my wiring considerably modified from doing different installs and now have the injectors and coils on completely different fused circuits. Doesn't make anything better but easier to trouble shoot and do future electrical mods if I choose. Good luck..

 

[redram2007]

Was it a PITA rewiring the coils and injectors? What are you using a tach adapter for? I wonder if mine is any different since I don't have an ASD relay?

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Was it a PITA rewiring the coils and injectors? What are you using a tach adapter for? I wonder if mine is any different since I don't have an ASD relay?

I'm pretty sure you do have a ASD relay, both JTEC or NGC uses one to control source voltage for coil, injector and fuel pump. As for rewiring the harness, I don't think it is that difficult. Just need to be a little organized. I have a 1/4 plywood panel with that is the layout of the harness. I use nylon wire tie loops on it to keep the wire neatly bundled. Then run the wires and solder all the plugs onto the new harness. On my 03, all the drivers wire use a plug at the rear of the engine on the driverside. Then the power wires all go forward toward the IPM and I used generic plugs to connect them to the power source. I can unplug the entire harness and lay it on a table. This is when I was putting it together.


Still under construction and is the power source for the fuel and coils.

 

[redram2007]

Nice. I may have some more questions later. I have a spare engine harness that I can use if it works. As for the ASD in 06 they replaced the FCM and ASD relay with the TIPM and the ASD is incorporated into the TIPM.