Orange sludge under radiator cap

[Burla]

It's hot, 204 is very hot to touch. Thermostat easy dyi job, up to you. If it is a fixed cost as in it would be the same as your service day as it would another day, I would opt to do it after you clean the system, that is when I would prefer to have a new thermostat. There are more guys versed in fans then myself, hopefully they will chime in.

 

[06 Dodge]

If this was mine I would remove the radiator and flush it then check to be sure it has good water flow, if not then replacement time, my self I would replace both radiator hoses along with flushing the block & replace T stat, I would hate to see how much of that gunk maybe in the heater core so you best hope its not plugged up... IMHO don't try to do this on the cheap, doing so it may come back to bite you really hard in the butt, so do it right the first time.. BTW if you just got this truck recently why did you not check the radiator before buying?

 

[Rome X]

If this was mine I would remove the radiator and flush it then check to be sure it has good water flow, if not then replacement time, my self I would replace both radiator hoses along with flushing the block & replace T stat, I would hate to see how much of that gunk maybe in the heater core so you best hope its not plugged up... IMHO don't try to do this on the cheap, doing so it may come back to bite you really hard in the butt, so do it right the first time.. BTW if you just got this truck recently why did you not check the radiator before buying?

Bought multiple used cars and jeeps in the past 20 years. Never had a cooling issue requiring me to do anything but top off a small amount of coolant. Wouldn't have ever even thought to check a radiator since thats never been on my radar in my life.

Replacing hoses and thermostat makes sense enough. What does flushing the block mean/entail? Is that what I'm about to pay for with a coolant flush at the dealer? I dropped the truck off tonight for its work tomorrow morning. If they can replace both hoses for a reasonable cost addition it might make sense to then tack those onto the flush.

Wouldn't know how to determine if a heater core is plugged of course. I still have hot heat and cold a/c, so I assume that means the heater core and thermostat are both functioning properly? For that matter I also have never had a code or a light for an overheat or temp issue that I am aware of. The only "symptom" of any kind in the function of the truck is the roaring fan in low gears and down hills.

 

[Rome X]

It's hot, 204 is very hot to touch. Thermostat easy dyi job, up to you. If it is a fixed cost as in it would be the same as your service day as it would another day, I would opt to do it after you clean the system, that is when I would prefer to have a new thermostat. There are more guys versed in fans then myself, hopefully they will chime in.

Seems like a fixed cost, the benefit to doing it with the flush, according to the service manager, is that it would allow them to do a more thorough flush out of that gunk "since it would be open right near the block", if I'm remembering what he said correctly.

 

[Sherman Bird]

Hi all,

Just bought this truck recently, and the radiator fan is really loud, especially in 1st and 2nd gear, and anytime I'm coasting down hill especially.

I check the radiator overflow and its bone dry. I open the radiator cap and this is what I find...
From some basic research it looks like 2 incompatible coolants were mixed, making this rusty looking sludge?

I am brand new to doing anything on my own vehicles, but was thinking of trying to flush this out myself and replace with new coolant. Seems most people also replace the thermostat when they flush the radiator? Anyone willing to offer advice or have a good, reputable, video walkthrough for this process for a 2013 Ram 1500 v8? Would certainly appreciate it.

View attachment 529946

View attachment 529947

You will have to use oxalic acid to get rid of that. It works exceptionally well, but it requires a SPECIFIC set of procedures and a follow up of a LOT of baking soda to neutralize it afterwards followed by a VERY lengthy fresh water flush that takes quite a while.
This is considered a hazardous product and you should wear a respirator rated for gasses and rubber gloves. The results I experienced on 2 different vehicles where someone mixed incompatible coolants was phenomenal.

After you are done, you will need to replace ALL hoses, the cap, and the thermostat. Chunk the Degas bottle and get a new one. Likely through Dorman Products. I always remove one of the "freeze" plugs from each side of the block after the procedure and neutralization and use a home made garden hose nozzle to mechanically get the crusty stuff out of the block, because the crud tends to pack in the rearmost crevices.

I can only find oxalic acid in the hardware store, it is used in furniture stripping. The product which I used back in the day was a DuPont item, which is no longer on the market.

 

[GTyankee]

If i were doing the same thing to my own Ram ...

I would go to a plumbing place, like Home Depot

I would buy one of these

It would have to be the size of the heater hoses, that go through the firewall.
About 6" to a Foot away from the firewall,
i would cut those heater hoses.

the two hoses that are closest to the water pump, i would slip a couple of Water Hose Clamps over the 2 hose ends, the slip the hoses over the piece in the image & clamp them in place.

May sound strange, but that will keep the radiator goop out of the Heater core that is located under the dashboard.

After you flush the radiator & you are happy with it.
Then you can remove the U shaped copper piece.

Then replace the curved piece with two 4" pieces of straight copper.
Then connect the hoses into the sections of pipe, using clamps.
That way the water is flowing as it was before you started.
and you have not contaminated the HVAC System

 

[RamDiver]

If i were doing the same thing to my own Ram ...

I would go to a plumbing place, like Home Depot

I would buy one of these
View attachment 530006
It would have to be the size of the heater hoses, that go through the firewall.
About 6" to a Foot away from the firewall,
i would cut those heater hoses.

the two hoses that are closest to the water pump, i would slip a couple of Water Hose Clamps over the 2 hose ends, the slip the hoses over the piece in the image & clamp them in place.

May sound strange, but that will keep the radiator goop out of the Heater core that is located under the dashboard.

After you flush the radiator & you are happy with it.
Then you can remove the U shaped copper piece.

Then replace the curved piece with two 4" pieces of straight copper.
Then connect the hoses into the sections of pipe, using clamps.
That way the water is flowing as it was before you started.

And, it might be a smart idea to back-flush the heater core separately, before reconnecting everything back.

.

 

[Rome X]

If i were doing the same thing to my own Ram ...

I would go to a plumbing place, like Home Depot

I would buy one of these
View attachment 530006
It would have to be the size of the heater hoses, that go through the firewall.
About 6" to a Foot away from the firewall,
i would cut those heater hoses.

the two hoses that are closest to the water pump, i would slip a couple of Water Hose Clamps over the 2 hose ends, the slip the hoses over the piece in the image & clamp them in place.

May sound strange, but that will keep the radiator goop out of the Heater core that is located under the dashboard.

After you flush the radiator & you are happy with it.
Then you can remove the U shaped copper piece.

Then replace the curved piece with two 4" pieces of straight copper.
Then connect the hoses into the sections of pipe, using clamps.
That way the water is flowing as it was before you started.
and you have not contaminated the HVAC System

I love the detailed response. I also have no idea what you're talking about in this post lol. What is the firewall? Why would a brass pipe prevent water flow compared to a hose? Why would I then replace the curved pipe with straight pipe? The sum total of my working on cars is doing an oil change for reference. I'm happy to learn, but this went way over my head I admit.

 

[GTyankee]

First answer is the Firewall is the metal wall between the Engine & your Dash Board
It is directly in below the front windshield.

In the engine area, under the hood
There are 2 hoses that carry water, you can not see them with the Engine Cover on top of the engine

Those two hoses pass through the firewall, they carry heated water to the Heater that is hidden underneath the dash board.

If you take those 2 hoses apart at the firewall, it is a knuckle banger,
so if you cut the hoses away from the firewall, it makes the job easier.
The whole reason for disconnecting the hoses from the firewall area, it keeps an crudy water from entering the heater inside of the cab.

 

[GTyankee]

I don't want to dissuade anyone from working on their vehicle, but i think that you might need an more experienced friend or neighbor to help you tackle this issue

 

[RamDiver]

Further to GTyankee's explanation; the heater core will behave like a filter on the coolant line and  will become clogged by all the chunks of yuck in the coolant.

This is most likely not a risk but inevitable, due to the condition of your coolant.

Once the heater core becomes even partially clogged, this condition will compromise the operation of heating in the cab of your truck.

Clogged heater cores are relatively common with older vehicles, even without a peasoup mix in the coolant line.

The idea of removing the heater core from the coolant line with a bypass pipe, before beginning the cleaning and flushing is a great idea and may save the cost and grief associated with replacing it entirely.

Search this site, YouTube, and the internet to learn more about clogged heater cores and the process of replacement.

They're not to difficult to replace but can be a messy PITA and an additional and unnecessary expense.

Also, don't ever think a dealership or even most rad shops would go to this effort to save you the expense of replacing the heater core.

They will happily flush all of that crap through the coolant lines, clog up the heater core, and be happy to start the process again after you return because you can't get sufficient heat in the cab.

.

 

[Burla]

Sounds like this guy is going the dealer route, maybe it will work, for future guys, rmi 25 is built for this, it takes anything clogging your cooling system and turns it to slime and deposits it overflow tank where it is trapped. Google rmi25 fixes dex cool damage see if some of the pics are still out there. You need do nothing, put 32 ounces of rmi 25 in and fill with distilled water no mater how low the fluid level was, and drive 500 miles. You will see for yourself, when you remove the cap, it will look new and all of those clogs will be gone. It is safe and non toxic and slow working, which is what you want. Then it is safe to use 24/7 so it doesnt happen again. I don't really think there is great benefit to clean systems, but once it goes wrong this is the stuff.

RMI-25 Works While You Drive​

• CLEANS – radiators, engine blocks, heater cores, hoses…the complete system
• INHIBITS – rust, build-up of mineral deposits, cavitation erosion, electrolysis and pitting
• LUBRICATES – thermostats, water pump seals, and heater controls
• CONDITIONS – improves heat transfer
• STABILIZES – contains a pH stabilizer for acid-alkaline balance
• FLUSHES – power flushes in combination with your water pump while you drive
• DETECTS LEAKS – contains a leak detector which pinpoints leaks under a black fluorescent lamp

 

[Wild one]

Has anybody found RMI-25 in Canada?
I've looked a couple times for it up here,and have never found it.

 

[Redfisher1974]

Price looks sus

 

[Wild one]

Price looks sus

Damn i've looked on Amazon and it doesn't show up.Any chance you can link to that amazon page,instead of a screen shot,as it doesn't come up for me when i punch in Redline RMI-25

 

[Redfisher1974]

Liphontcta Cooling System Treatment Gallon (4 Quart Bottles) https://a.co/d/1An1p6f

 

[Wild one]

Finally found it.Is this the same stuff as the Redline version?

https://www.amazon.ca/RMI-25-Cooling-System-Treatment-Bottles/dp/B004JVCJUU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?crid=2SO9XF4Q6V9VC&keywords=redline+RMI-25&qid=1697228107&sprefix=redline+rmi-25+%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.d0e27fc4-6417-4b26-97cb-f959a9930752

 

[Redfisher1974]

Its under the scientific name

 

[CanuckRam1313]

Going back to my field days as a generator tech, but an engine is an engine...so they say...lol

Fleetguard Restore Plus - now this is some next level stuff for cleaning and polishing cooling systems!
Wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator, too.
The junk comes out and everything is polished inside.
However, you had better do one heck of a water flush afterwards, and several of them to ensure all the Restore product is out

 

[Wild one]

Its under the scientific name

Man my a$$ puckered,but i ordered the 4 bottles to try out in my 300,as i'm getting ready to put the winter 203 thermostat back in it soon. I sure hope you're right about this stuff Mike,as i'm walking around with my butt cheeks clamped shut now