Transmission fluid dark before 30k Miles

[U&A]

Because tranny oil is so thin, I wouldn't worry about it, any engine bypass will be good enough I'm sure. The only issue is that thread needs to hit but plate. So the thread that is in the filter is key, because of the relationship between the filter and the housing, it can't be off at all even a leak at that spot I bet you loose a ton of line pressure.

The seal is made with the O-Ring though so as long as that seats you should be good right?




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[HammerHead]

After looking at that paper spin on filter it Beggs the question as Why? Engineers that design these transmissions have got to know paper can't go 120k. Makes me wonder why they have it in there in the first place, if the sump filter is synthetic what would be the point?

Thanks Burla for the First ever tranny filter cut-up.

 

[Burla]

Did you cut yourself on the trans case? That ******* is sharp.....

No, but I'm sure you can identify it isn't terribly easy to be 6'4'" and 250 rolling around under the truck, plus I'm getting old. I need to get a lift. Only thing I didn't get to today was rear diff, because I have it on ramps the back end lost it's clearance. Front diff fluid was like new, but I got redline in there now. Transfer case got c+ as well. I might do back diff's when I do a tune up before summer. This took too many days, I was expecting to get everything done by today.

 

[Burla]

After looking at that paper spin on filter it Beggs the question as Why? Engineers that design these transmissions have got to know paper can't go 120k. Makes me wonder why they have it in there in the first place, if the sump filter is synthetic what would be the point?

Thanks Burla for the First ever tranny filter cut-up.

Why not make it an inline filter instead on inside the transmsion? It is just stupid, and we all buy this garnage because we have no choice. But, it is even getting worse with newer trucks.

 

[Burla]

The seal is made with the O-Ring though so as long as that seats you should be good right?




Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

but, the oring relationship to the top of the threads has to match. Put it this way, I'd just have a factory spin on filter on hand when we find a replacement, just in case.

 

[Hemi395]

Kinda like the Allisons on the GM trucks. They have an external filter that looks like an oil filter...

 

[Burla]

I'm gonna try and get that plastic out w/o damage, now I can at least find something with the same top size, and I need that in tact to find the right thread size. These are different then our RP filters, the threads are smaller dia.

 

[Hemi395]

I'm gonna try and get that plastic out w/o damage, now I can at least find something with the same top size, and I need that in tact to find the right thread size. These are different then our RP filters, the threads are smaller dia.

I think it's an 11mm Allen?

 

[Burla]

I don't need the outside in tact, just the part that goes into filter. Prolly just use pliars. Next mod, drain pain with change bolt. I got at least 3 quarts maybe more from dropping pan the extracting alone. I wont **** with that seal garbage again, the sump filter will protect this transmsion, all we need is spun micro glass spin filter, only deal with fluid from now on and do it often. None of those filters had any metal or clutch material, nothing, and nothing in the pan.

 

[U&A]

I'm gonna try and get that plastic out w/o damage, now I can at least find something with the same top size, and I need that in tact to find the right thread size. These are different then our RP filters, the threads are smaller dia.

Our engine oil filters are 22x1.5

Im fairly certain the trans is 20x1.5

I measured both sides of that metal filter thread and they both seem to be the same.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[joshuaeb09]

This is the post i was referring to about the pump and transfer cases.

You shouldn’t need a pump to get it out.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

Its the getting it back in with skid plates that sucks.

 

[Burla]

I hardly use transfer case, there must be a reason the fluid went dark, something spinning in there even when not engaged.

 

[BWL]

The fluids that get dark first in my truck is consistently front diff and transfer case. I change them both around 25kmiles consistently and they always look due. Rear end and trans go 60k and still look good when changed. Go figure.

 

[chrisbh17]

Not sure what the setup on a 2010 is, but on my 2017 I have proven that the front driveshaft spins even with the truck in 2WD. In turn, Im guessing it spins the output shaft of the transfer case, even though there is no power coming out of the transfer case since the truck is in 2WD. Even though the fluid isnt really doing any WORK, I wonder if that causes it to get dark.

Unless my '17 is the only one that does this, but Im pretty sure the 4WD setup in any RAM with the axle disconnect on the front passenger side will still "backfeed" the front driveshaft even in 2WD.

 

[HammerHead]

Is it me or does that bypass valve look bigger in diameter than a oil filter bypass valve?

 

[U&A]

Is it me or does that bypass valve look bigger in diameter than a oil filter bypass valve?

View attachment 156315

Looks like there are many sizes for the same application

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Burla]

 

[Burla]

This is my worry, in order to flush,you see the arrows, you will be running the TC dry. I got a lot out, over 8 quarts, I guess that will have to be it. Just use up the rest doing a quick Syn flush maybe every time I change my oil.

 

[U&A]

This is my worry, in order to flush,you see the arrows, you will be running the TC dry. I got a lot out, over 8 quarts, I guess that will have to be it. Just use up the rest doing a quick Syn flush maybe every time I change my oil.

I agree


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Burla]

Better safe then sorry, it's too late now, I put back 11 quarts including t case. I actually thought it would be less, so I am very happy with that.

Pretty happy with the test drive, the transmsion dropped 6F and everything I had discussed before was gone. Mind you I had these things from day 1, I used tow haul because of low rpm transmsion shudder, well documented, I could not reproduce that with this new fluid, no kind of way. Had a clicking when off road, everytime, now gone. The 4x4 low would snap your neck everytime it changed gears, now it goes through the gears like butter. I hate to sound like a broken record, but this fluid is a performance upgrade by itself.

Now, one issue I may have found, the front diff was low, could have caused the clicking, but yes replaced with redline 75w90 thanks RLK. I guess what happens if the factory fills the diffs, but they don't drive it. When you drive it and make turns, it pushes fluid out of a solid axle, but I wonder if somehow it pushes out fluid in the independant axle? It is either that, or the factory just under filled it. I am going to go burn some gas and have some fun. Get a hamburger before the liberals ban them