37" MTs with which gear, 4.88 or 5.13?

[olyelr]

I have read some from people who were very happy with the Overland shocks. And the price is really quite affordable, even if I only run them for 1 to 2 years. Or 5 lol the way the clock moves.
I probably wouldn't exercise the 2.5 Kings too hard , I really don't race across roadless deserts, dunes sure but not the rocky, trenchy, desert floors, no jumps or daylight under the wheels unless crawln and flexn, but I don't think I'll ever air it out on purpose not even two wheels. I get a little morose when I think of 7650 lbs landing even off a curb, some day maybe but for now, four down low and sometimes with a locker or two on is where I live.
Thanks man [emoji106]

And I believe those are ready right away, I always like that

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Yea. I would go white bodies for sure. Then, down the road if you feel like you need more shock, then the option is available.

 

[crazy jerry]

sorry ive no experience with carli other than the tracbar bracket i posted. my setup is thuren full setup. front and rear coils. front tracbar. rear tracbar and axle side bracket. rear swaybar links. boogie bumpstops. fox 2.0. kung ss. king shocks are way overkill for what i needed

 

[trdt44]

waiting for another box of parts but have most everything needed for the 5.13 gear change

View attachment 199231

got the bar about as flat as it can go at 2.5*

View attachment 199232

For the gear change are you having to use a ring spacer for the front and pinion conversion bearings for the rear? Getting ready to do my gear swap and doing all my research.

 

[BoldAdventure]

You gotta use a shim in most cases

 

[WY.Ram]

Yea, you will need shocks for sure. But, dont sell yourself short on the white body ones from thuren. Sure, they are not kings, but you can always upgrade later. For $1700 for the entire kit (with white body shocks), it seems like a viable option for a while to me.

Hey, thanks for the advice, You too@crazy jerry! I got it done, ordered any ways. I got to the 'proceed to checkout' stage (been there before) and I woulda bailed again but not this time.lol

I didn't feel like the steering damper was a need so stayed w the Overland kit. As configured there, $1450 or something close, I added the rear track bar, and rolled it ground - $1850 to my driveway. No ETA yet. I'm sure I'll be grabbing some odds and ends, j just thought shock boots, but whatever, hella deal, two years internal turmoil at a close,

Again thanks guys

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[crazy jerry]

For the gear change are you having to use a ring spacer for the front and pinion conversion bearings for the rear? Getting ready to do my gear swap and doing all my research.

as far as i know, theres only one 11.5 gear set for the rear. it fits gm, older dodge and any new dodge with gm sized pinion. the newer coil spring 11.5 has larger pinion so the special bearing is needed. making one gear set to fit all 11.5 kills many birds with one stone and no doubt the reason why theres no coil spring specific gearsets beyond 4.56

about the front. beyond the ram specific 4.56, youll need a spacer for some gearsets for sure. aam brand will need the spacer. i believe yukon needs the spacer as well according to their site, assuming its accutate. but everything isnt always cut and dry with gearsets . the waters are muddy and the level of incompetance seems high among the vendors selling the gears. getting straight answers is dang near impossible. nitro claims their front set needs no spacer for our trucks but ive yet to confirm that for myself, although at this point im skeptical it wont require a spacer. ive got a nitro set laying around but i dont have another brand in the same ratio to compare the ring gear thickness so im sort of at a dead end, kind of. wyram sent me some photos of his front 5.13 aam brand with spacer installed so ill see if i can some how determine the thickness from his photos and compare to my nitro set.

 

[crazy jerry]

ya buddy all the hardware showed up and everything bolted together for test drive tomorow

 

[crazy jerry]

i have to say these trucks are frikin awesome. when everythings tuned in they run down the road nearly as good as any coupe de ville. flattening the tracbar is cherry on the top. it drives like a dream

 

[WY.Ram]

i have to say these trucks are frikin awesome. when everythings tuned in they run down the road nearly as good as any coupe de ville. flattening the tracbar is cherry on the top. it drives like a dreamView attachment 201147

Dude, nice to hear the ride report? That tracbar looks unusual, badass but don't see them like that very often. I measured my stock angle last night, mine is sitting at 7 deg maybe even 6.5 but It looks way steeper than I measured but now that I've seen yours stock looks like 45deg.

What angle does the Thuren bracket leave the tracbar? Well anything other then zero means a Carli bracket. Fer fk.

How bout spring compressor, did you squish those new springs yourself? And if so what type of spring compressor? I don't much like so many that Ive see, leaning towards a couple 1000lb ratchet straps, would that be crazy?

Also, Is gonna say if it's critical for you know the need for a spacer on your front axle before you start your regear, I'll bust mine open again and mic my 5.13 ring. I can just recover the new fluid, ain't too big a deal.

Nice truck

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[crazy jerry]

i didnt check the angle of the thuren bar with only the axle side bracket. im guessing between 2.5-5 if the rear isnt lifted much. the advantage of a longer flatter bar is it doesnt see saw side to side nearly as much when the axle goes up and down. i didnt use compressors. just jack it up under the axle fairly high and stack a bunch of railroad tie chunks under the frame on both sides and lower the axle until the springs have no tension then remove them. dont forget to undo shocks, powerhop shock, brake line brackets, driveline,tracbar

dont worry about checking the ring gear just yet. ill measure up the one ive got and get back to you. i dont mind sending some paypal money so you can put new oil back in. ill stay in touch

 

[crazy jerry]

i did the same for front and rear. you can see alot of wood blocks under the frame. jack it up fairly high with 2 floor jacks so the axle can drop down far enough to get springs out. undo brakeline brackets,cad and locker wires, driveline, shocks ,tracbar etc

 

[WY.Ram]

i have to say these trucks are frikin awesome. when everythings tuned in they run down the road nearly as good as any coupe de ville. flattening the tracbar is cherry on the top. it drives like a dreamView attachment 201147

Is this the correct drop bracket, $75?

So you did install the Thuren and didn't like the final angle? Well, my gear all landed here yesterday and today, with the exception of the Carli part.

I grabbed cinder block today, hardware stores had no rail ties, dorks. So my garage/shop has a very slight slope to it just enough for water to run the right direction, am I cool to do these installs on that slight angle? Left to right it's nice and level just the front to back. Coolio thanks.

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[crazy jerry]

your fine without the carli bracket if you dont lift the rear much over stock. im using 1" rear spacer on top of the thuren coils so thats why i used the additional frame side bracket. a slight incline shouldnt be a problem. just chock both wheels on whatever axle your not working on. make sure you have all the proper tools before getting started. seems like you need a allen wrench to hold the top of the rear shocks. dropping the spare tire gives more room to work. use rope to hold up the drivelines and pen mark its relation to the pinion before taking out the bolts. undo brakeline brakets. use paint pen to mark any bolts that you cant propery get a torque wrench on, other wise theres a few special tools and torq adapters youll need. loosening the radius arms front and rear lets the axles drop more freely and wont bind up the bushings but you needs 30mm socket and 36" 3/4 breaker bar for rears. fronts are 24mm and maybe 27mm if i recall. leave the caster cam bolts alone for now. honestly i would just do the front one day and the rear the next day

 

[crazy jerry]

theres a couple loose ends i needs to finish up when the weather gets a bit warmer but for the most part i got it where i want. just have to cut the skiplate crossmember and weld in new center section so driveline can drop lower. double check the brakelines wont need lowering brackets. little **** like that. but im super happy with how it turned out. feels like you can hit curbs at 60mph without a care in the world

 

[olyelr]

Is this the correct drop bracket, $75?

So you did install the Thuren and didn't like the final angle? Well, my gear all landed here yesterday and today, with the exception of the Carli part.

I grabbed cinder block today, hardware stores had no rail ties, dorks. So my garage/shop has a very slight slope to it just enough for water to run the right direction, am I cool to do these installs on that slight angle? Left to right it's nice and level just the front to back. Coolio thanks.

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your fine without the carli bracket if you dont lift the rear much over stock. im using 1" rear spacer on top of the thuren coils so thats why i used the additional frame side bracket. a slight incline shouldnt be a problem. just chock both wheels on whatever axle your not working on. make sure you have all the proper tools before getting started. seems like you need a allen wrench to hold the top of the rear shocks. dropping the spare tire gives more room to work. use rope to hold up the drivelines and pen mark its relation to the pinion before taking out the bolts. undo brakeline brakets. use paint pen to mark any bolts that you cant propery get a torque wrench on, other wise theres a few special tools and torq adapters youll need. loosening the radius arms front and rear lets the axles drop more freely and wont bind up the bushings but you needs 30mm socket and 36" 3/4 breaker bar for rears. fronts are 24mm and maybe 27mm if i recall. leave the caster cam bolts alone for now. honestly i would just do the front one day and the rear the next day

I am a little confused on the questioning of using the carli bracket with the thuren track bar.

If the thuren trackbar setup is used you do not need another drop/raise bracket...its designed to work with the thuren axle bracket only.

And even on stock height trucks the thuren track bar setup will make a big difference in drivability.

 

[olyelr]

Oh I see, you lowered the frame side due to the 1” spacer. I understand your thinking, however it is not needed.

Did you happen to run the suspension down to the bumps to assure the added frame side bracket does not cause any clearance issues?

 

[crazy jerry]

olyer theres alot of things that arent needed. since the thuren rear coils dont significantly lift the rear of the truck, a guy would be just fine with the factory tracbar . now to the thuren bar and bracket. it should be no mystery what a longer flatter bar does. it provides a more up/down path of travel rather than side to side ,ie shorter higher angle bar. its simple as that. nothing secret about it. to clear up what i did so theres no confusion, i added the frame side bracket to get the bar angle back to about where it was before the 1" spacer and shift the axle more to the driver side so its nearly dead nuts centered. was the bracket necesarry , no. but then again we could say that the whole thuren bar assembly isnt necesarry. hell ,the fox shocks i put on arent necesarry either, or the mud tires, or the 17" wheels. i guess everyone can find their own definition of necesarry

 

[crazy jerry]

heres alittle more on the subject of whats necesarry or not. there has to be plenty of people with 37s on stock suspension and 4.10. me personally couldnt imagine driving a stock truck with 37s but people will say they do it just fine

 

[olyelr]

olyer theres alot of things that arent needed. since the thuren rear coils dont significantly lift the rear of the truck, a guy would be just fine with the factory tracbar . now to the thuren bar and bracket. it should be no mystery what a longer flatter bar does. it provides a more up/down path of travel rather than side to side ,ie shorter higher angle bar. its simple as that. nothing secret about it. to clear up what i did so theres no confusion, i added the frame side bracket to get the bar angle back to about where it was before the 1" spacer and shift the axle more to the driver side so its nearly dead nuts centered. was the bracket necesarry , no. but then again we could say that the whole thuren bar assembly isnt necesarry. hell ,the fox shocks i put on arent necesarry either, or the mud tires, or the 17" wheels. i guess everyone can find their own definition of necesarry

Yea I get what your saying. No, the track bar isnt necessary. But from what I have read, even with stock trucks (pw or not), the thuren track bar setup really improves the drivability of the truck.


I understand why you lowered the frame mount. But there are plenty of trucks out there with his springs and 1” spacers that did not lower the frame side mount and it works fine. My concern, which most likely isnt an issue, was if there is a clearance issue at full bump without dropping the bumpstops a bit (not sure if carli does that or not).

 

[crazy jerry]

im not sure where your trying to go with your posts. other than to say that other poeople did it different that me, so what i did wasnt necesarry. and again, to make it clear as clear can be, everyone can decide for their self what is necesarry

although i didnt have the thuren bar and bracket on my truck when it was stock ,im quit sure it makes a nice improvement. for the simple reason that i mention before. thuren bar is longer and his bracket flattens the angle. to say again, i repeat, the axle travel will now be more up/down with less side/side. reducing the see sawing or wagging as some people call it

about all those folks with 1" rear spacers that arent using a frame side bracket. if theyre happy, then im happy for them. people are happy with 37s and stock gears, i couldnt be happy but thats just me. i dont know what else to say about your comment

you can sleep easy tonight as the bar doesnt hit anything when suspension is compressed