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Midnight Storm

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Thanks for the really well written thread! You spent a lot of time typing out your thoughts along the way and breaking down the options, rather than just, “then I did this.”
Also you took some incredible pictures! Maybe Ram will use them in their advertising when they release the Desert Dawg edition next year. Don’t even want to know the MSRP on that one ;)

Cheers!
 

crazykid1994

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I can’t believe I just saw this thread. This is amazing. Your truck is awesome. I see hodge has been a big help. This forum is an amazing forum and great help. You did a great job with your truck
 
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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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Thanks for the really well written thread! You spent a lot of time typing out your thoughts along the way and breaking down the options, rather than just, “then I did this.”
Also you took some incredible pictures! Maybe Ram will use them in their advertising when they release the Desert Dawg edition next year. Don’t even want to know the MSRP on that one ;)

Cheers!

Thank you very much! I always hope others will enjoy reading my build threads (and therefore not a total waste of time...lol). But seriously, I enjoy showing what you can do with "daily drivers" if set up correctly!

But I REALLY like your factory RAM "Desert Dawg" edition thought...lol. :cheers:
 
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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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I can’t believe I just saw this thread. This is amazing. Your truck is awesome. I see hodge has been a big help. This forum is an amazing forum and great help. You did a great job with your truck

Oh yeah, @hodge-xj has been very encouraging since the beginning; he has a tremendous build thread that is amazing to read too!

Thanks for the great compliment and taking the time to follow!
 

hodge-xj

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Oh yeah, @hodge-xj has been very encouraging since the beginning; he has a tremendous build thread that is amazing to read too!

Thanks for the great compliment and taking the time to follow!
Mines just a bunch of jibberish mixed in with "do as I suggest but not as I do!" If anything it's a thread of hard lessons and experiments! Lol but thank you.

I'll always be here to live vicariously through others and instigate the spending of money! I look forward to seeing how the trip went, as those are the real reasons we build these trucks. To go and adventure!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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Since we were in Telluride, I decided to take the scenic route back to Ouray by going over Ophir Pass that summits at 11,789 ft. I have done the pass before and it is not that difficult although it can get pretty snowed in and slippery but the vistas are amazing. The last time I did this pass, a family thought they could make it across the loose shale and small boulder trail in their all-wheel drive SUV and got stuck about a 1/3rd of the way up and I had to turn their SUV around in order to get it back down the trail...not a fun thing to do but everyone got home safe. This time, no such drama although my wife didn't appreciate sitting on the outboard side looking straight down while the loose shale rocks crackled under the weight of the truck...lol.


Beginning of the run:


 
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Bjammin101

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This is awesome. I love how this turned out on your truck and I really want to follow a similar path with the Fabtech suspension. I know my factory wheels aren't supposed to work with this suspension so I was thinking about using wheel spacers but not sure how far that would push out the wheels and tires since I prefer the flush look you have.

Let us know how the suspension did with all the rocky trails it looks like you were on. Is there any extra lean on-road while turning or still pretty flat with more compliance on rough surfaces? Any shuddering while on rough surfaces/hitting potholes? Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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This is awesome. I love how this turned out on your truck and I really want to follow a similar path with the Fabtech suspension. I know my factory wheels aren't supposed to work with this suspension so I was thinking about using wheel spacers but not sure how far that would push out the wheels and tires since I prefer the flush look you have.

Let us know how the suspension did with all the rocky trails it looks like you were on. Is there any extra lean on-road while turning or still pretty flat with more compliance on rough surfaces? Any shuddering while on rough surfaces/hitting potholes? Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks Benjamin! Overall, I am pretty happy with the combo of wheels/tires and the new suspension. See my review below! :cheers:
 
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Desert Dawg

Desert Dawg

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Review of the Ram Rebel performance during the road trip and off-road excursion over Ophir Pass.

As mentioned previously, I took the Rebel on a small ~700 mile road trip from my home in north Albuquerque, NM to Ouray, CO which also included an ~80 mile side excursion trip to Telluride, CO and looping back to Ouray over Ophir Pass.

Trip Details:

It is only a 3 hour drive from my front door to Durango, CO which is the entry point into the San Juan Mountain Range and better known as the "Little Switzerland of America". But going from Durango to Ouray is at least a couple more hours of driving due to the slow, twisting, and at times even scary (but extremely scenic) mountainous route but every minute is worth it!

Starting Elevation (Albuquerque, NM) @ 5100 ft. above sea level

Destination Elevation (Ouray, CO) @ 7760 ft.

Intermediary Destinations;

(Durango, CO) @ 6512 ft.

(Silverton, CO) @ 9320 ft.

(Telluride, CO) @ 8750 ft.

Highest Traversed Elevation (Ophir Pass) @ 11,789 ft.

Season and Weather; typical early summer weather in northern NM and southern CO with temperatures ranging in the low 90s in NM to mid-60s and 70s in southern CO mountain valleys with scattering of light showers. Skies hazy due to recent forest fires in southern CO combined with overcast days.

Photo courtesy of Google

Overview:

In order to give a review on the Ram Rebel’s performance, I will attempt to give my impressions on the Ram Rebel’s factory performance and my build modifications’ performance individually.

On-Road Performance

Ram Rebel:

Comfort – very comfortable ride overall with great support from the seats (never tiring). Very quiet inside with the Harman-Kardon providing great sound quality with the Sirius radio. The climate controls and other systems worked perfectly. Wife was very comfortable in the passenger’s heated/cooled seats and had plenty of storage for our luggage, camera gear, and my usual assortment of recovery and emergency gear in rear seat.

On-Road Performance – no issues at all as the Ram had plenty of passing power even when going up steep mountain grades at altitude. The transmission was always in the right gear and never seemed to spend much time hunting. My only real complaint is that manually changing gears (i.e., holding a gear during downgrades) is not really easy or fun with the placement of the manual shift buttons on the steering wheel (especially if the wheel is turned) as with my Tundra and Ford center console shifters with manual gates. Other than that, the Ram was a pleasure to drive.

Gas Mileage – averaged 14.5 mpg going 75-85 mph during the mostly uphill highway ride during the beginning of the trip, 7-8 mpg during the off-road excursion at exceptionally high altitude in 4-high or 4-low, 9-10 mpg on twisty paved road mountain switchbacks, and averaging 15.5 mpg going 75-85 mph on mostly downhill highway ride during the return trip. Overall averaged trip mileage @ 14.4 mpg. Compared to my built 2015 Tundra which usually averaged ~12 mpg on same exact trip (including some off-roading), this was a nice improvement along with the extra benefit that the Ram was more comfortable than the Tundra over longer distances.

Build Modifications - okay, here is the thing that folks really want to know when you lift your vehicle:

Comfort – amazing, per above. The Fabtech 3-inch Dirt Logic suspension provided an extremely comfortable and stable ride. I don’t think the ride quality was quite as smooth as the Falcon suspension I had on previously (especially over smaller road imperfections) but it was pretty darn close. The Dirt Logic shocks are a tad stiffer as expected given the larger coil-over spring rates and shocks but the system just soaked up dips and rises perfectly. The really amazing impression though were the new Yokohama Geolander MT G003 tires; these very aggressive looking off-road tires rode smooth as butter at high speeds and never wandered! They were exceptionally quiet at speed given the much larger size and tread design. While there is some increased road noise, they were not intrusive at all. Amazing! I also feel that the extra weight of the topper over the rear axle also helped smooth out the ride and added to the overall driving impressions (below).

On-Road Performance – Turn-in feel always felt great although just a tad slower than the factory setup (due to the tires’ extra mass and width providing more road contact patch) but higher speed turns always felt secure with minimal body lean (hardly noticeable since I also increased the track width with the new wheels and tires). The Dirt Logic valve tuning was excellent for on-road performance and comfort as stated above. The Yokohama Geolanders provided excellent on-road grip in both dry and wet (during mountain showers) conditions. The tire temperatures never increased passed their normal settings even after long high speed sections. The Fabtech Dirt Logic setup reminds me very much of the King OEM Performance Series Suspension I ran on my Tundra which is a very good thing!

Gas Mileage – see above. I was very happy considering the extra weight of the aftermarket wheels and much larger tires, bed topper, all the gear we stuffed into the truck, and the fact that I totally changed the vehicle’s aerodynamic profile by lifting the vehicle (although not by a huge amount compared to other lift options). Also, my highway mileage was taken at speeds ranging from 75-85 mph (maybe slightly higher at times but will deny that in Court) so I am pretty confident I would have netted much better results on flatter, slightly slower highway drives despite my build modifications.


Off-Road Performance

I need to qualify this particular off-road excursion. Ophir Pass is nestled in the San Juan mountains with a summit at 11,789 ft. The trail rated is as a “moderately difficult” trail and that is mostly limited to the ledge carved out of the steep side slope that originally served as a toll road between Silverton and Telluride during late 1800s. But it can be quite nerve-wracking as the side slope and trail is comprised of very loose, fragmented rock that slides easily and can be quite slippery especially when wet. For an off-road excursion though, it is not very technical and there are no big boulders to worry about other than some rock fall from above. The biggest boulder I encountered was maybe 2 ft. in diameter but there was no rock crawling to the degree you may find on other trails in the area. But the trail is just rough enough to be fun and you can find side trails that are bit more challenging although I purposely avoided anything too strenuous due to the fact that this was my wife’s first experience on a side slope like this and her toes were curled during the entire crossing…lol. But I did find a couple of small rock hills that require some low-range wheeling so had a little fun testing out the suspension.

Photo courtesy of Google

Ram Rebel:

Overall, the Rebel did just fine with plenty of low end grunt to muscle over the rocks and out of the ruts on the side trails. Wet wheeling was limited to very small stream runoff so no real issue there. However, this truck does make a lot of noise when under stress. There is some rattling underneath that I need to have checked out but the more disturbing sounds come from the engine fans and hill descent control system. I never had an off-road biased vehicle make so much noise before so this was disconcerting at first although I finally got used to it. But the wife was comfortable and felt secure inside the Ram (especially once we left the ledge sections).

Build Modifications:

In short, the Fabtech setup did just fine too providing plenty of clearance and wheel articulation to tackle the ruts and larger rocks on some of the side trails with no detectable complaints from the heavy duty UCA/ball joints or Dirt Logic shocks. Slow speed crawling seemed pretty smooth. While going faster on dirt roads, the system was notably stiffer over washboards but always controlled even without airing down the tires (so my initial impression is that the Dirt Logic shock valving is linear). The Yokohama Geolanders provided plenty of confidence too as they just crushed (literally) the rock sections and provided excellent grip going uphill over the loose rock. I did not find any chunking of the tire tread afterwards given the amount of hard, rough cut rock we wheeled over. Overall, I am pretty happy with the Fabtech Dirt Logic system and Yokohama tire combo as it made the truck ride comfortably over the rough stuff while giving me the performance I expected for moderate wheeling. I am anxious to try it out on some higher speed desert/dune runs as that will allow me to make a more accurate comparison against my other builds with King, Icon, Fox setups.





Edits: photo add and spelling corrections
 
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Desert Dawg

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Side Step Selection


On the topic of side steps, I guess I should mention that I typically don’t like them but they are a necessary evil (at least from an off-roading perspective) as most designs detract from the vehicles' clearance and may even decrease the break-over angle. But they are a necessity for my daily driver/weekend warrior vehicle; at 6’ 3”, I personally have no issues getting into or out of my lifted Rebel, but my wife is a lot shorter at only 5’-3” and I also have other shorter/older occupants I need to consider.


Originally, I had planned on going with the AMP Research power retractable side steps. I have installed them on at least 4 other builds and the systems always performed flawlessly for me in all weather conditions (admittedly, I don’t live in an area that gets ice storms where I am sure the motor linkage assemblies might freeze up). But for occasional water crossings and desert/dune runs, the motors are sealed pretty well and so never any performance issues. In addition, since the AMP steps retract high up under the vehicle, I have never had any clearance issues for the type of trails I typically run.


However, as is typical of me when I am ready to order something, I started second guessing myself. While I don’t mind paying top dollar for top quality gear, the AMP asking price of ~$1500-$1900 per set (depending on the model) is high enough to give some pause as I could invest in some real rock sliders at that price.


While some have done a great job of fabricating their own and/or going to a local shop, I don’t have the patience, talent, and time so decided to look into some quality rock slider fabricators online. Not too many options out there (yet) but these looked very good and I almost called them:


https://white-knuckleoffroad.com/ram-1500/

https://www.mapleoffroad.com/new-products/dodge-3rd-amp-4th-gen-rock-sliders-with-rub-rail


But as I thought about it, I had to remind myself that I am not planning on taking my daily driver on highly advanced trails with large, car-sized boulders that I want to climb over. Moderate trailing is all I really want to do with this rig (if not, I will build a Jeep). Also, while newer rock slider designs can now be outfitted with a steel mesh or diamond plate step, the slider height (on the lifted truck) really doesn’t help my vertically challenged passengers. So I nixed that tempting idea.


Next was the “soft” slider/running board options offered by Go Rhino (Dominator Series), n-Fab (various), Westin (Outlaw Series), and others. I say “soft” slider as these are really just nerf bars/running boards with an extra rub rail/tube underneath. While that may provide some minor protection, the systems attach to the body, not the frame, so will not support any vehicle weight at all. But I thought the designs were more interesting and fitting the style of an off-road vehicle more so than the typical flat, wide running boards also offered by the same manufacturers. The argument for selecting a flat, wide running board however is that you get a continuous platform to stand on along the entire length of the cab and you may even get a measure of ding protection from those obnoxious parking lot patrons.


Anyway, my preference was the n-Fab selections mostly due to the fact that I have used several of their products in the past and was always pleased with the quality and n-Fab’s service. In full disclosure, n-Fab still uses a couple of my photos from previous builds to advertise their products (and so now does Walmart, CARiD, and others…lol) but I am not a paid endorser.


Also, n-Fab recently came back on my radar as a friend of mine, who also purchased his Rebel around the same as mine, had just installed a set of their powder-coated RKR Nerf Step System which includes an under rub tube and detachable side steps.


I really like his setup but the drop steps are really quite narrow and I thought might be problematic for some as they are hard to find when exiting the vehicle (or when I get older and can’t see so well). upload_2020-8-3_14-40-51.gif So instead, I thought I would go with the beefier looking Podium LG & SS side steps as they are constructed with a 3-inch stainless steel tube with integrated steps that are much larger (and therefore safer and more functional). The main tube also sits high and tight to the vehicle body for a clean modern style.

Eventually I decided that the 3-inch round tubes with larger drop steps would just detract from the additional ground clearance (and increased break-over angle) I achieved with my recent 3-inch lift on the Rebel. I nixed that idea as well.

So I am back to the AMP retractable steps as they drop well below the rocker panel to provide a low, wide, safe step up for others while retracting fully up under the rocker panels to retain my ground clearance when four wheeling. In addition, you can have the side steps in the extended position for a platform along the entire body side (vs. a small step) for when cleaning the vehicle and/or accessing the roof. I have taken these steps off-roading on many a desert and mountain trail with my moderately lifted (3-4 inch) vehicles in the past with never an issue (again, avoiding highly technical trails).

I upgraded this time to their Powerstep XL version which is specifically designed for lifted trucks as the running boards drop an additional 3-inches than their standard version but retract into an integrated “rocker rail” for a seamless look. The system is made of aluminum so lighter than more of the other nerf/running board options and comes with an ORB “plug and play” connection.

upload_2020-8-3_14-40-51.gif
 

rule18

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Great writeups and great job on the rig. None of your pic links work for me, something about no having permission to view the media in the albums.
 
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Desert Dawg

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Great writeups and great job on the rig. None of your pic links work for me, something about no having permission to view the media in the albums.


Thanks for the compliments!

Yeah, I have been having problems with my hosting site (Photobucket); I just upgraded my account and they promptly stopped working properly (and not responding to my requests for a refund). Anyway, I have been loading up my on own Albums so that I can host on this site. Hopefully, the photos should be showing up now if you refresh?
 
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Desert Dawg

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AMP Research Power Step XL Install


As mentioned previously, I am a big fan of the AMP Research Power Steps having installed them on several of my trucks. But I am NOT a fan of installing these things, at all. Is not because the installation is extremely difficult because it isn't if you have basic automotive and electrical skills and tools, but the steps are a major pain in the derriere especially if you don't have a lift. I converted my old shop into a garage/man cave sort of thing but my roof is rather low and so haven't worked out the lift details. Since I just had my truck lifted, I didn't bother about putting it up on jack stands to give me a little more room but it would have made the install a tad easier; the steps have to be installed in the deployed position to fit and align with the motor/idler arm assemblies and therefore cannot be retracted until powered up. The XL steps extend just a tad more than the standard steps which decreases the available space between the floor and the extended step. I knew this but my impatience proved out as it took me almost 8 hours to install versus the usual 5-6 hours (note; AMP Research suggests that you will need 3-5 hours of installation assuming you're a skilled mechanic, just saying).




One of the things I am a stickler about, especially when receiving packaged goods, is to unpack everything to visually inspect the condition and make sure all of the parts are actually accounted for. Nothing worse than getting more than 50% through something only to find out you're missing a key bolt or part. Everything looked good and ready to go!

Part of accounting for all of the parts is to organize everything before getting started. I like using old ammo trays to separate all of the small pieces and contain them especially since I have a penchant for knocking small items off my work bench or kicking them under something without realizing it and then spending hours looking for it...lol.

After getting organized, another **** thing I do is clean everything before I start working. So I wiped down the engine bay as well as under the rocker panels so that no loose dirt/mud gets in the way or falls into my eyes when working. The other thing I did was make sure the factory body panel studs were also cleaned so that the nuts would not bind up and/or over torque the studs.


One of the first steps is to install the rail brackets to the rails (specific for the XL model only). One tip to save time/effort later is to measure exactly as recommended in the instructions (which are actually lacking in a lot of detail, unfortunately). I was able to slide under the truck with the rails on my chest and lifted them directly onto the studs so that part was actually quite easy.

The instructions do include torque specs for most of the bolts and so I highly recommend using a torque wrench (not that I have ever over torqued anything before upload_2020-8-3_15-11-57.gif).


https://**************/community/attachments/amp-power-steps_8-jpg.63452/


For my setup, I had to attach the motor assemblies (sometimes they come pre-attached). But I was very happy to see that the gear drive housing covers actually fit perfectly and so I didn't have to trim anything like on previous models. Anyway, the motor assemblies and idler arms connect very nicely to the factory studs without the need for any drilling (which is nice since I had to also drill and install rivet nuts on other builds). For both the XL and non-XL models, it is always a good idea to leave everything loose so that you have enough play to line up/mount the assemblies and then the step boards. Getting the step boards onto the arms can be a hassle since you have to seat the T-nuts into the arm pockets and secure with the supplied socket cap screws. To make this easy, simply stick a thin Allen wrench through a mounting hole in the arms and slide the T-bar and align its mounting hole to the Allen wrench and drop into place. A more painstaking task is aligning the step boards centered with the rail assemblies (again, because I am ****, I measured everything 3-4 times along with using various levels).


Once secured, I went back under the truck and tightened everything to spec. Now ready for the real work; the electrical hook up.
 
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Desert Dawg

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AMP Research Power Step XL Install (continued)


Now my model is "plug and play" which sounds great unless you are obsessed in making sure everything looks factory clean! So after laying out the harness across the engine compartment, I was able to decide how I wanted everything to mount and look. AMP suggests that you mount the step controller to the existing factory conduit in the engine bay. I was not liking that idea as I wanted the module as high as possible and easy to disconnect if needed, so I drilled a couple of holes in the molded cover (and underlying steel) on top of the firewall and installed the module using the supplied zip ties. I then removed the supplied in-line 30 amp fuse and connected the module to the battery and zip tied everything with my Rigid light wiring for a nice bundled look.


After getting the module mounted, I then opened up the electrical chase that runs along the top of the engine bay (under the plastic cover per above) and inserted the passenger side harness wiring through the chase. This was actually not as easy as I had hoped since it is hard to reach and I always worried about breaking the plastic tabs that insert into the metal receivers but I took my time and didn't break anything. The result is a completely clean, factory looking install within the engine compartment with minimal exposed wire loom.


After that, I dropped both the driver and passenger side wiring down along the wheel wells and made sure nothing was touching anything mechanical or anything that might get hot. Once down the sides, I threaded the harness through the frame/bracket openings up along the under body side sheet metal and zip tied as much as possible to keep in place. After getting the wiring along both sides laid out, I decided where I wanted to place the LED step light brackets to make sure I would have enough play to attach.


I actually debated about installing the LED step lights because on prior models, the lights are simply pressed onto the rocker panels and required drilling through the pinch weld areas to pass the wiring through. I never liked that idea, as well as reports of the two-sided 3M tape not holding up, so I always skipped this step. But with the XL, you get these slick metal brackets that attach to the rails and not to the rocker panels. They are tucked up high with no need to drill through the body. So I decided to give it a try. Also, if the tape does not hold up, I can replace it along with the fact that I have a nice cache of replacement LED lights that I kept from previous installations.


Next, you have to pass through the firewall so that the trigger wires can be wired up to the supplied OBD II plug. I wasn't relishing this task either as it is always a pain fishing something through a rubber boot to pass through the wires. But I followed the instructions that suggested you use the boot right below the steering column. I don't know why I didn't see/use this when I wired my two pairs of Rigid rights, but it was a lot simpler this time just using a hanger and electrical tape.


Getting the OBD II connected to the green port tray located in the side panel was a lot harder, especially if you have big hands as I could barely reach up under the dash to the plug. You can use any open port in the tray but of course the only open port I had was at the very top. Also, at over 6' tall, getting underneath the dash enough while holding a light and the 2-pin connector was a chore too. Anyway, after a few frustrating attempts, I got it in (no jokes allowed).


After zip tying everything up high under the dash, it was time to check everything and then clean up before reinstalling the 30-amp in-line fuse. As soon as I did, I heard the whir of the motor arms as the steps retracted immediately under the rocker panels. So the first good news is I didn't hear any clunking of the steps that might suggest hitting of the rail assemblies. The second good news is the LED lights worked!


I was ecstatic as I was finally done...except for one little observation; when I opened the driver side door, the passenger side step would extend or retract and the same for the passenger side door that activated the driver side. WTF (What the Frak) ? upload_2020-8-3_15-18-11.gif I knew I wired everything right (hard to mess up the passenger side wiring since the driver side wiring is way too short to reach the passenger side)! I went round and round on what might be wrong and even hunted for troubleshooting tips online (to no avail). But then it occurred to me that it must be the OBD II plug; either I used the wrong port or it's defective. I revisited the port tray and there was no other place to plug in so that could not be it. I checked the AMP instructions and there is no mention at all of any wiring preference for driver vs. passenger side, so what could it be?

Turns out, I am just color blind enough not to notice the subtle difference in the trigger wire coloring. I disconnected the OBD II plug and exchanged the two wire connections...bingo!

 

rule18

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Thanks for the compliments!

Yeah, I have been having problems with my hosting site (Photobucket); I just upgraded my account and they promptly stopped working properly (and not responding to my requests for a refund). Anyway, I have been loading up my on own Albums so that I can host on this site. Hopefully, the photos should be showing up now if you refresh?
DODGE RAM FORUM - Dodge Truck Forums - Error
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