manifold leak

[14hemiexpress]

So driving with the Windows down I could hear the flutter of a manifold exhaust leak under deceleration. Upon further inspection listening under the hood I can hear the ticking also. I'm reaching out for some opinions do I get new gaskets new bolts and move on or am I asking for the same trouble later down the road and should solve it with some bbk's? I'm not sure if I have broken bolts or not yet I need to pull the heat shield and look but I have gotten some tips on removeing the bolts If they are broke off from a machinest buddy of mine.

Side note I know LT's are the best but I'm not wanting to change the whole exhaust right now and money plays some factor in that as well, 300 I can swing 7-800 I can't I know jba's are 550 but gotta modify other stuff.

 

[White2013]

I had the same issue took it to the shop to replace the gasket on the driver side turned out 3 bolts backed off half a turn
Chances are you are fine takes a lot to break bolts

 

[jwheeler]

The exhaust leak is likely caused by broken bolts. If that is the case, they should all be replaced. The bolts break because the manifolds warp and will likely need to be replaced. Stock replacement stuff is alright but I have never seen a case on here of broken bolts with aftermarket headers. I would put on a set of shortys at least. Pull the heat shield off so you know what you are dealing with. You can usually just grab the shield and pull on it. It is almost always the bolts on the ends that break and they are the ones that hold it on.


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[Casper]

I took mine in under warranty--they replaced the whole right manifold. Warped apparently.

Headers would certainly take the flawed Chrysler design out of the equation for you.

I've still got about 9K miles of warranty, but then it'll be my bill if it reoccurs and I'll have to address the same question.

 

[Hemi450hp]

Like mentioned, you will likely need to replace manifolds and bolts if you want to fix the problem for good. BBK's arent much of an improvement over stock in performance or quality though, so I would actually go with the JBA shorty if you dont want to mess with longtubes. They are a better quality header, stainless instead of mild steel, and the smaller 1 5/8" primaries will give you more tq and mid range power than you would get form the BBK.

 

[smoothee]

Stock replacement stuff is alright but I have never seen a case on here of broken bolts with aftermarket headers.

I recently noticed a ticking on mine after having headers for 4ish years, so hoping it's just the bolts backing off a bit.

 

[14hemiexpress]

Like mentioned, you will likely need to replace manifolds and bolts if you want to fix the problem for good. BBK's arent much of an improvement over stock in performance or quality though, so I would actually go with the JBA shorty if you dont want to mess with longtubes. They are a better quality header, stainless instead of mild steel, and the smaller 1 5/8" primaries will give you more tq and mid range power than you would get form the BBK.

So let me get your opinion on this would it be better to replace with stock manifold or bbk's? I'm not looking for performance little sound would be nice not expecting much. I could look into arp studs or bolts for factory manifolds but why I was in there of I could throw couple bucks for a upgrade I could swing that with the wife but I can't swing 500+

Edit: it comes down to either stock or bbk I'm honestly ok with either and if bbk's quailty isn't up to it I'm ok with that I'll replace 1 or both stock manifolds as needed and find arp fasteners for it.

 

[BlownGP]

I'm sorta in the same boat.

I just started hearing a exhaust leak on a cold start but after about 30sec to a minute it goes away and I never it again.

I assume it's going to get worse.
I have intention of making this some race truck so as much as I would love some LT's I rather spend 1K+ on something else.

 

[Hemi450hp]

So let me get your opinion on this would it be better to replace with stock manifold or bbk's? I'm not looking for performance little sound would be nice not expecting much. I could look into arp studs or bolts for factory manifolds but why I was in there of I could throw couple bucks for a upgrade I could swing that with the wife but I can't swing 500+

Edit: it comes down to either stock or bbk I'm honestly ok with either and if bbk's quailty isn't up to it I'm ok with that I'll replace 1 or both stock manifolds as needed and find arp fasteners for it.

BBK's quality has been lacking as of late, so I would just go back to stock manifolds.

 

[14hemiexpress]

BBK's quality has been lacking as of late, so I would just go back to stock manifolds.

I appreciate the honesty. Maybe one day I will be able to swing the jba's but I'll start digging in the next few days to find the root of my leak.

 

[jwheeler]

Yep. Figure out what is leaking first. One manifold is a lot easier to swing than a pair of headers. When I did my jba long tubes, I had broken bolts on doth sides. It was a little easier to justify replacement of both manifolds.


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[Hipps2000]

I switched over to longtube headers at about 8000 miles have 17000 on my truck now. PM me if anyone wants to buy my oem manifolds, they only have about 8000 miles on them mint. I couldn't wait to get them off, I did whole new exhaust headers back.

 

[BlownGP]

I don't care how crappy BBK and JBA headers are. I'm not sure I would waste my time with putting manifolds on when they could warp again? Right?

 

[Hipps2000]

Well like Matt said, if your gonna do headers do it right the first time. Buy a quality product and install right the first time. Ceramic coated headers the way to go... But some don't want to cough up the coin. You get what you pay for.

 

[BlownGP]

Well like Matt said, if your gonna do headers do it right the first time. Buy a quality product and install right the first time. Ceramic coated headers the way to go... But some don't want to cough up the coin. You get what you pay for.

Yeah I understand. I would love LT's but I don't need them. My truck is fast enough for me. I have my GTP if I want to go faster.

I really haven't heard anything bad about BBKs, just that would won't gain the HP you will with LTs. Which is obvious.

 

[d250]

My v6 dodge snapped a manifold bolt right off. It will forever sound like ****.


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[jlpowell84]

Well like Matt said, if your gonna do headers do it right the first time. Buy a quality product and install right the first time. Ceramic coated headers the way to go... But some don't want to cough up the coin. You get what you pay for.

I did like you and replaced the ENTIRE exhaust system from long tube headers back. I tend to pay more and buy quality in all my purchases in life and went with the American Racing long tubes with their Y-pipe. I had my muffler shop do it just in case any manifold bolts wanted break. They only had one that gave them issues. Then I installed an MBRP cat back exhaust. Then it was beyond stupid loud at mild acceleration, I loved it at full throttle but I had to add a resonator in. So the 3" section from the Y-pipe exit flange to the muffler flange which is like 3ft or so I added in a Vibrant 1141 resonator. IT has the straight through design just like the MBRP muffler, just perforated holes on the 3" bore with a little packing around that. Everything is 304 stainless through the resonator then 409 stainless from the pipe out of the resonator to muffler all the way back. Well the MBRP tips are 304 technically!

Now I did kinda rush into all of this and getting it done. I read about ceramic coating and wrapping but didn't think it was entirely necessary for me. I live in Oregon and we do get warm from mid July through August then mid September. But I am not racing my truck, taking it to the track, etc. Just a fun part time driver. Matt from Moe's didn't mention coating or wrapping in our conversations and emails nor did the guys at my muffler shop. And they install many many exhaust systems from headers back on race cars. Dirt track is pretty popular around here...

I don't claim to know much so all my thinking may be wrong here.

 

[14hemiexpress]

I don't care how crappy BBK and JBA headers are. I'm not sure I would waste my time with putting manifolds on when they could warp again? Right?

What I got from Matt is to do jba's for the Shorties not bbk as the bb k are lacking in quality but the jba's are good quality they are just almost 600 for a pair of Shorties vs 300 for the bbks and I'm sure quality has something to do with that.

 

[jwheeler]

You will be just fine with a stock replacement manifold if that is what you want to do for now. I think I paid almost 900 for my headers and y-pipe, compared to like 70 for a stock manifold. If you just want the truck fixed, there is nothing wrong with that.


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[Hipps2000]

I would recommend the JBA headers they are very good and many run them on the Titians. If you can't do longtubes go with the ceramic coated JBAs! You won't regret headers much better than the stock junk. The ceramic coating is for heat reduction and flow. Stainless gets hot so it helps to cut down on the heat in the engine bay. I don't race my truck either. I just one to do things the best way possible the first time. I have been very happy with the ARH excellent quality and fitment. I also was skeptical about codes and engine lights, but no codes even without my tune. I have been running oem for past 3 weeks due to getting some work done at dealer.

I also have the magnaflow 16869 catback kit with 22" muffler and feel that the sound is perfect. I did however fully dynomat, dynaliner, and dynapad my whole interior including roof and backwall. Truck is quiet inside and not a rattle even with the 1500 watt stero and 12" sub! I installed an e-cut in that piece of straight pipe where you installed the resonator. With the cutout open truck is obnoxious! Lol

Pic below