Quieting Hemi Tick

[huntergreen]

oil filter thread

I did not cut open puro filter because it was only on the truck for a day. I figured no reason to. That was their top of line filter. I would wager all paper filters tear when the glue that binds the paper hardens. And the paper filters don't even filter as good to start with, so literally the only reason to use a paper filter is cost, but the cheap comes out expensive in the long run imo. When the truck ticked on puro filters and not RP, I compared RP with the puro I still have. I will keep it, maybe someday I will do a quick flush and just use the puro fr a day again. This is what I've seen, there just wasn't enough holes in the puro filter for good flow. Mind you, the new puro synthetics have a cheese grater design, but regardless they have lost my business and no reason to stray from royal purple filters imo.

Thanks again burla.

 

[HammerHead]

One thing about oil filters that never gets much discussion is the gasket. I never thought much about it until I had a problem with Wix xp oil filters. Now I look closely at the gasket; the Wix gasket wasn't the issue primarily but more just simply defective. With that said, M1 is my old faithful oil filter; comes with a Nitrile Gasket. It's nice and thick but pliable, see pic. Not sure if we could consider it a tier one oil filter with a blended filter media, but it's very well made. In terms of flow, I spoke to an M1 representative and they reported the M113A flows 18 gallons per minute. Not sure how that compares to the full synthetic media but respectable imo.
Here is what I found online about the gasket material:

Nitrile is highly resistant to petroleum oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils and many acids and is resistant to a broader range of aromatic hydrocarbons than neoprene. It has good elongation properties, as well as adequate resilience, tensile and compression set. These advantages make nitrile gaskets ideal for applications where resistance to oils, solvents and fuels is of critical importance, including diaphragms, hose gaskets, tubing, cups and seals for fuel and hydraulic components.

 

[R.L.K.]

I don’t think it’s so much the filter helping the tick. I use fram filter XG16 with my relocation kit and redline 5-30 and that seemed to do the trick with the tick......

You're using a quality filter ...a quality filter DOES Make a difference imo

We here just know the RP10-48 IS a quality filter .
Don't get us wrong ...ROYAL PURPLE OILS ARE TERRIBLE !


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Chief_6.7]

Your using a quality filter ...a quality filter DOES Make a difference I'm

We here just know the RP10-48 IS a quality filter .
Don't get us wrong ...ROYAL PURPLE OILS ARE TERRIBLE !


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

That’s what I originally went with and my tick just got louder. Drained and added redline the tick is gone

 

[Burla]

That’s what I originally went with and my tick just got louder. Drained and added redline the tick is gone

hemi honey strikes again, what weight redline?

 

[Chief_6.7]

hemi honey strikes again, what weight redline?

5w30 redline

 

[MK96]

I agree with Burla above [emoji1303]

If Motul 300v 5W-30 is available I'd certainly give it a try Sir !

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Found a post at Subie forum about Motul and Redline, they seem to contain different esters (di-ester vs polyol-ester): https://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f113/double-ester-technology-oil-75828/#post844445

Stephen let us know the result, I am probably the most curious about your oil decision and result

 

[RunQuick]

I had a pretty bad hemi Tick, but once I switched to Redline Oil it was nearly obsolete. Also used MoS2 by Liqui Moly and it helped even more.

 

[Burla]

Another success story, thanks for contributing. What weight did you run? What made you try redline? How many miles did you drive on redline before adding ms02? My only concern is a moly overdose, I might consider doing a short oci like 7500 miles and doing a uoa WITH TBN if you are going to continue that strategy. I don't think it is a bad strategy at all, I just want to know more how it is working, tbn reading will let you know. Your moly reading will likely be in the 2,000's which is race car oil category. I don't know any PCMO's that run that high of moly.

 

[RunQuick]

Another success story, thanks for contributing. What weight did you run? What made you try redline? How many miles did you drive on redline before adding ms02? My only concern is a moly overdose, I might consider doing a short oci like 7500 miles and doing a uoa WITH TBN if you are going to continue that strategy. I don't think it is a bad strategy at all, I just want to know more how it is working, tbn reading will let you know. Your moly reading will likely be in the 2,000's which is race car oil category. I don't know any PCMO's that run that high of moly.

I used 5w30 Redline and added the MoS2 - Liqui Moly at about 2,500 miles into the oil use. Also used Royal purples performance oil filter. Was doing those oil changes every 10k miles mainly because it takes me a long time to hit the mileage as I have short commutes to work.

 

[MK96]

BTW Liqui Moly has some 5W-20,5W-30,5W-40 & 5W-50 Molygen oil that has according to Bimmer M3 forum 660ppm Moly in it. I think the 5W-30 might be worth to try: https://products.liqui-moly.com/molygen-new-generation-5w-30-1.html
It is a synth technology, therefore I guess it is a group 3. This oil may help to answer the question if ester or just high moly or both is the cure to ticking hemis. The 5W-40 molygen seems too thick when comparing to Redline 5W-30.

 

[MK96]

OK, I have to correct my post. Based on official LM information it is non-solid additive based on tungsten with similar chemical properties like molybdenum. Tungsten and Molybdenum are sitting next to each other in periodic table of elements.

 

[NOV87]

Great vids although I didn’t understand a damn thing that last dude said although like the old saying goes “a picture is worth a thousand words”

Here is the translation:

"Let's take a quick look at 5w30 grade oil. Motul is clearly the "leader" of the pack (worst oil of the three).
For 5w30 the temp needs to be a little lower. Let's wait till it drops to about
-30 C or -35 C, then it will become more obvious. But the results are already very interesting. Anyways, bye everybody. "

BTW, great discussion here! Learning a lot already!

 

[Hemi395]

Here is the translation:

"Let's take a quick look at 5w30 grade oil. Motul is clearly the "leader" of the pack (worst oil of the three).
For 5w30 the temp needs to be a little lower. Let's wait till it drops to about
-30 C or -35 C, then it will become more obvious. But the results are already very interesting. Anyways, bye everybody. "

BTW, great discussion here! Learning a lot already!

Awesome thanks for translating that! Always wondered what he was saying as it clearly showed Redline 5w30 was the least cloudy of the 3.

 

[Burla]

Here is the translation:

"Let's take a quick look at 5w30 grade oil. Motul is clearly the "leader" of the pack (worst oil of the three).
For 5w30 the temp needs to be a little lower. Let's wait till it drops to about
-30 C or -35 C, then it will become more obvious. But the results are already very interesting. Anyways, bye everybody. "

BTW, great discussion here! Learning a lot already!

Was that Russian or something? I'm impressed.

 

[NOV87]

Was that Russian or something? I'm impressed.

Yes. ESL here

 

[ChevySlayer69]

2015 Ram Express QC Hemi 5.7, 8 speed, 3.92 with LSD and 38k miles

Feels like I'm so far ahead of the game right now. The solution for me is Pennzoil Conventional (PYB) 5w-30 and a Motorcraft fl820s filter. This is a cheap combination from Walmart and seems to have taken care of my hemi tick. For me, it's always been quiet at startup and when completely warm. A tapping develops while it was warming up. It's a lot worse if I shut down the engine and restart before it completely warmed up. I had used Pennzoil Platinum and Valvoline full synthetic advance in 5w-20 previously with mopar filter. The filter was fine but motorcraft is cheaper.

Also want to mention my Hemi also prefers 87 over 89 octane. When summer blend gas rolls around, she briefly chokes on startup when cold with 89. I gave 87 a shot and it never happens.

Moral of the story, gotta treat your Ram like a lady. Good.... but not too good.

It's about time I follow up on this. The hemi loves PYB 5w-30 and the motorcraft filter was fine. Until one day last week i noticed the rpm's shoot higher than usual at startup. I noticed a few more startups with valvetrain noise that had been obsolete with PYB, so I put her on ramps and noticed an oil leak from the oil filter. Must have been a little loose, but I decided to drain the PYB, remove filter and install a Fram Ultra XG02 (tight) with PP 5w-30 for better protection in the winter. The startup valvetrain/noise noise was gone, but now that old tick is back when she's warming up. This is the tick you can hear best from under the engine. It seems to be gone at operating temperature, but I don't like it.

The question now is do I go back to PYB 5w-30 for winter? Or would going to redline really be worth the price? Keep in mind the only benefit for me is the characteristics of synthetic during winter cold start. I don't mind changing my oil often. Maybe PYB 5w-20 instead of 30 would help for the really cold mornings? in January startup between 0-10 F is the norm and down to about -15 is possible during a cold snap. Whatever I do this fram ultra filter is not coming off so a half quart or so of PP 5w-30 will remain.

 

[Burla]

It's not only what the formula in redline does to ticks that makes it great, it also has great cold properties. It doesn't cost that much for another pyb run, if you don't like the way the truck starts then try redline, OR 0W40 PUP. PP just hasn't been a good tick oil, before you dump it you might want to try dumping i 15 ounces lubeguards biotech.

 

[HammerHead]

It's about time I follow up on this. The hemi loves PYB 5w-30 and the motorcraft filter was fine. Until one day last week i noticed the rpm's shoot higher than usual at startup. I noticed a few more startups with valvetrain noise that had been obsolete with PYB, so I put her on ramps and noticed an oil leak from the oil filter. Must have been a little loose, but I decided to drain the PYB, remove filter and install a Fram Ultra XG02 (tight) with PP 5w-30 for better protection in the winter. The startup valvetrain/noise noise was gone, but now that old tick is back when she's warming up. This is the tick you can hear best from under the engine. It seems to be gone at operating temperature, but I don't like it.

The question now is do I go back to PYB 5w-30 for winter? Or would going to redline really be worth the price? Keep in mind the only benefit for me is the characteristics of synthetic during winter cold start. I don't mind changing my oil often. Maybe PYB 5w-20 instead of 30 would help for the really cold mornings? in January startup between 0-10 F is the norm and down to about -15 is possible during a cold snap. Whatever I do this fram ultra filter is not coming off so a half quart or so of PP 5w-30 will remain.

I'm glad you had success with a thicker conventional oil, your the first person I've seen use conventional for the Hemi Tick. But with your current situation and cold temperatures I'd give Redline at shot.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

After reading through this thread and others as well, I am a little paranoid maybe? I do know that when I first start my truck it sounds like some very quick ticks or knocks, you can hear it in the video below. This always happens unless I first turn the key and wait for a few seconds or goes away after about 4 seconds when I cold start.

Can you guys tell me if you guys notice anything or if I have this tick?

Thank you all in advance.