Quieting Hemi Tick

[HammerHead]

After reading through this thread and others as well, I am a little paranoid maybe? I do know that when I first start my truck it sounds like some very quick ticks or knocks, you can hear it in the video below. This always happens unless I first turn the key and wait for a few seconds or goes away after about 4 seconds when I cold start.

Can you guys tell me if you guys notice anything or if I have this tick?

Thank you all in advance.

You definitely have the Hemi Tick along with start up chatter. This tells me you engine is unhappy. I've never seen both before.

What oil are you using?
What oil change interval?
What oil filter are you using?

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

You definitely have the Hemi Tick along with start up chatter. This tells me you engine is unhappy. I've never seen both before.

What oil are you using?
What oil change interval?
What oil filter are you using?

Thanks for the response... Everything is still factory, I haven't done a single oil change to it. Here is another video I just shot this morning on a cold start. Again, if I wait a few seconds before actually turning the engine on it does make the start up chatter...

 

[chrisbh17]

I get the chatter if I start the truck cold then stop it shortly afterward. The next startup Ill get the chatter.

BUT I have never tried what CAG just did, since I was always standing outside the truck using remote start. Makes me wonder if the chatter I get would go away if I started the truck manually but gave it a few seconds to "boot up" before it cranked over.

@CAG CheechDogg your first video, with the chatter, did you happen to have the engine running for very little before that, wait a half hour or so and then re-start the truck for the video? If so, thats a pretty common thing it seems. My "use case" for it happening is if I have to move my truck from one side of the driveway to the other. Truck only runs for maybe a minute or two while I do it, and on the next startup it will make that chatter.

 

[Burla]

I don't know about that one, the hollow sound sounds more like exhaust bolts. Here's the thing, before going the multi lubrication approach if that's what you are gonna do, take it to the dealer and GET AND SAVE AN INVOICE. When they say that is normal hemi sound, then you might try different oils, and run uoa's every oil change and keep exact records. That is what I wish I did when my hemi tick started at 3500 miles, but I blew it off and didn't get records. Now, we hear cam/lifter replacement every week, so I would protect myself against FCA warranty service which is basically a denial service. Even if you used other weight oil or other brand oil, you will have a uoa sheet that shows the oil was always in good shape and that you changed it regularly.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

I get the chatter if I start the truck cold then stop it shortly afterward. The next startup Ill get the chatter.

BUT I have never tried what CAG just did, since I was always standing outside the truck using remote start. Makes me wonder if the chatter I get would go away if I started the truck manually but gave it a few seconds to "boot up" before it cranked over.

@CAG CheechDogg your first video, with the chatter, did you happen to have the engine running for very little before that, wait a half hour or so and then re-start the truck for the video? If so, thats a pretty common thing it seems. My "use case" for it happening is if I have to move my truck from one side of the driveway to the other. Truck only runs for maybe a minute or two while I do it, and on the next startup it will make that chatter.

Both times the truck sat in place for hours. The first one was almost 24 hours since the last start and the 2nd video was just this morning from the time of that first video's start.

I don't know about that one, the hollow sound sounds more like exhaust bolts. Here's the thing, before going the multi lubrication approach if that's what you are gonna do, take it to the dealer and GET AND SAVE AN INVOICE. When they say that is normal hemi sound, then you might try different oils, and run uoa's every oil change and keep exact records. That is what I wish I did when my hemi tick started at 3500 miles, but I blew it off and didn't get records. Now, we hear cam/lifter replacement every week, so I would protect myself against FCA warranty service which is basically a denial service. Even if you used other weight oil or other brand oil, you will have a uoa sheet that shows the oil was always in good shape and that you changed it regularly.

Ok, a bit confused about what I even want to do to begin with. I do have 2180 miles on it already and no oil change to this point.

What do you recommend me doing in terms of 1st oil change. I don't want them even touching my truck which is something my Father never allowed on his 1996 1500 and it still going strong to this day.

So my plan is to always do the maintenance I can myself. But you say take it to the dealer so there is documentation and record that oil changes were always done on time and oil was always in good shape.

Man this is a bit concerning but from seeing you guys on this forum it looks like with the proper steps I can fix this issue correct?

 

[Burla]

First have the dealer inspect the exhaust bolts, don't let them blow you off on a brand new truck. Throw a fit if you have too. Don't leave til they take your truck in a bay and make them give you a receipt. Tell them everyone you know have a hemi and this is not normal and that you will seek lemon law advice. Do all that if you dealer is a **** pile, a reputable dealer will simply take the truck w/o all that.

Per warranty they cannot deny to take your truck in, but technically they can charge you they determine there was nothing wrong. If they deny to take the truck, call the police and get a police report, lol. That may be a bridge to far but it might work. Call the non emergent phone and see if they will give you a report. Or better yet pull out your cell phone and inform the service advisor you are recording him if he deny's to take the truck. Be careful to advise him you are recording him, and if he denies to be recorded on the video that is all you really need. You need to prove you were there. Hire a lemon law lawyer. I won a lemon law case on much less, my truck "clicked" everytime I turned left, I won 13g's on it. Fight **** and scream but do not let FCA get away with this on a brand new truck. They refused to fix it under warranty, I won the case. They always settle out of court, key is getting someone t take your case. My guy said he would take the case but he thought it was a dog, I showed him, lol. Do research, find a tsb, that is what I did and I won.

I eliminated my startup chatter with 5w30 redline, it's gone. Also, more importantly I eliminated hot idle tick with it as well, which is the worse one to have. I guess some of the guys still get a lesser start up chatter with redline, but they seam to be in the cold states. But I would do everything before going this route.

 

[HammerHead]

Thanks for the response... Everything is still factory, I haven't done a single oil change to it. Here is another video I just shot this morning on a cold start. Again, if I wait a few seconds before actually turning the engine on it does make the start up chatter...

If turning over the key eliminates the chatter keep doing it; I do the same thing in my 6.4 but more to activate the fuel pump. The tick tick tick noise I heard in the first video after the high idle settled down is definitely the Hemi tick. Only one oil gets the credit for eliminating the tick in most cases, Redline Oil. Since your still under warranty you could try RL 5w20 and see how it goes. Be sure to give it at least 1000 miles to do its thing. The Moly additive in the oil needs heat and pressure to activate and do its plating of internal engine components. This takes time!
Most guys on the forum with Hemi tick and mechanical noise are bumping up to a 5w30 weight oil. But warranty could be an issue; depends on the dealership.

How many miles on the rig?

 

[Burla]

I'd defiantly have the dealer do the first oil change at 5k miles, maybe ask him on the record to diagnose the tick. Get receipts for everything, don't smash them up and put in pocket. Keep receipts like you are going to court, fca sucks at this event.

Their is someone roaming around here, ramcares, maybe she can help, seams to help some people. Ram might care, but many dealers do not give a ****.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Good stuff Burla, yeah when I take it I will definitely be recording everything from the get go, I will "Exercise my 1st Amendment" which allows me to record in any public building.

Of course I will be calm and professional about everything before and hopefully I don't have to start throwing a fit lol ...

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

If turning over the key eliminates the chatter keep doing it; I do the same thing in my 6.4 but more to activate the fuel pump. The tick tick tick noise I heard in the first video after the high idle settled down is definitely the Hemi tick. Only one oil gets the credit for eliminating the tick in most cases, Redline Oil. Since your still under warranty you could try RL 5w20 and see how it goes. Be sure to give it at least 1000 miles to do its thing. The Moly additive in the oil needs heat and pressure to activate and do its plating of internal engine components. This takes time!
Most guys on the forum with Hemi tick and mechanical noise are bumping up to a 5w30 weight oil. But warranty could be an issue; depends on the dealership.

How many miles on the rig?

It has 2180 brand spanken' new miles on it. Yes, before I start it I turn the key over for a few seconds and then let it start.

I read through a full thread about Red Line oil and Royal Purple filters. That seems to be what you guys are using on your trucks and has done its job.

I'd defiantly have the dealer do the first oil change at 5k miles, maybe ask him on the record to diagnose the tick. Get receipts for everything, don't smash them up and put in pocket. Keep receipts like you are going to court, fca sucks at this event.

Their is someone roaming around here, ramcares, maybe she can help, seams to help some people. Ram might care, but many dealers do not give a ****.

Can I take my own oil and filter for them to use on the first oil change? Or should I just let them use what they want?

Hopefully this is something that the right oil and filter combination will fix. I am concerned to a point but reading through all these threads I feel a bit relieved.

 

[chrisbh17]

FWIW I switched to Redline and noticed an improvement right away. That was coming from PUP which is the "best" approved oil we can get (except for RL 5-20 depending on how you read their wording about the Chrysler spec).

I even have MaxCare so "who cares" if the cam and lifters need replacement right? I will still put RL in the engine for life just based on the difference it has already made in the quietness of my engine.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

I'd defiantly have the dealer do the first oil change at 5k miles, maybe ask him on the record to diagnose the tick. Get receipts for everything, don't smash them up and put in pocket. Keep receipts like you are going to court, fca sucks at this event.

Their is someone roaming around here, ramcares, maybe she can help, seams to help some people. Ram might care, but many dealers do not give a ****.

Will they allow me to take my own oil and filter to do the oil changes?

 

[Burla]

I read through a full thread about Red Line oil and Royal Purple filters. That seems to be what you guys are using on your trucks and has done its job.

Redline doesn't certify the Chrysler spec, like I said I would protect myself first if you decide that route. The truck is so new just get
receipts, if I was you I would wait a see what shakes out before going my own way. Did you get extended care contract?

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

Redline doesn't certify the Chrysler spec, like I said I would protect myself first if you decide that route. The truck is so new just get
receipts, if I was you I would wait a see what shakes out before going my own way. Did you get extended care contract?

I got the 60 MOS./100000 miles service contract and the 24 MOS./Maintenance Contract.

 

[Burla]

Yeah so you don't have the lifetime or extended warranty, and it sounds like for two years they will be doing oil changes. Something you may want to do is invest in a used oil analysis at some point to see the wear numbers. However, I personally wouldn't do that til near 20k miles, because all hemi's have bad wear numbers as the engine breaks in. Until then, just follow dealer recommendations and get receipts and have them look at it. The second you do your own **** they WILL deny you. A guy who had a documented transmission problem prior to him changing his own fluid was just denied because he changed his own fluid = FCA. You have to act as if you are going to court, because you may have to if you want them to pay. Unfortunately we hear this story over and over, to your benefit you already know it is likely FCA will act the way they act, so protect yourself. I would never buy another new FCA product, buy used and fix them up. They lost my respect and business with the constant denials.

 

[Hemi395]

I would let them put whatever they have at the dealer in you're truck. You don't want to give them any ammo to deny a warranty claim. Most likely what they put in will be a bulk PYB 5w20 or PGB 5w20, both of which are great oils. Then the Mopar filter which is a decent filter just not the greatest for extended intervals.

I would also suggest getting an oil change based on mileage, not the OLM in the dash. That way there will be a record at the dealer that shows you got oil changes more often. I'd go with 3000 or so for the first change, then around 5000 miles there after.

 

[Fitz-0518]

CAG, sorry to hear your concerns. Understand your confusion. The members on this forum who are sharing their thoughts are knowledgeable people. You will get good help here. A couple things to be aware of.
* Each of us are listening to your audio recording, using different feeds and speakers. What each of us hear will vary. My 72 yr old ears tell me that you have a internal dry start noise.(maybe) An exhaust leak will typically be a higher pitch pulsing noise. But that depends on what is leaking. Exhaust manifold or y pipe. It too, often goes away with warm up.
* You have less than 3000 miles and have not changed the factory oil. If your oil choices allow you, under warranty to use RL 5-30 and RP oil filter, as stated above, I would do that today. "Some" dealers will cooperate and put in what the customer provides as long as it is reasonable. If not, you have to make that call. Warranty compliance or what has been proven to be a solution.
* The key to working with a dealer/FCA is consistent and persistent s. No fit, rise above them because you know how. When the service advisor writes up your complaint/concern,,,do not sign it until you read it. If they do not enter your specific complaint and description as you stated, have them change it before you sign the work order. You may not need this paper trail, but if you do, you will be glad you have it. I followed this discipline with my RAM and FCA's review of the work orders caused them to replace the truck.
* Last thing. Our 5.7 and 6.4 engines are large engines that make some odd noises before they are broken in. My neighbor thought he had a cam lifter issue or severe exhaust leak in his 2019 1500 5.7 at 800 miles. It turned out to be one bad dry serpentine follower and belt.
Stay cool and we like updates that can help others.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

No, I did get the lifetime and extended warranty on top of the 60 mos. 100000 ... I think lol ... going through my contract ...

But once again, thank you for all the information ... For the lifetime and extended warranty where exactly do I look for it? If I remember correctly the lifetime comes from 3rd party correct?

 

[Fitz-0518]

MOPAR warranty is manufacture warranty. Third party would be under a different name.

 

[CheechDogg.0n37s]

I would let them put whatever they have at the dealer in you're truck. You don't want to give them any ammo to deny a warranty claim. Most likely what they put in will be a bulk PYB 5w20 or PGB 5w20, both of which are great oils. Then the Mopar filter which is a decent filter just not the greatest for extended intervals.

I would also suggest getting an oil change based on mileage, not the OLM in the dash. That way there will be a record at the dealer that shows you got oil changes more often. I'd go with 3000 or so for the first change, then around 5000 miles there after.

Good stuff Hemi395, all your advice makes perfect sense. As I read more and more through these forums I am less concerned. It is a new truck and having them to the maintenance for the first 24 months is without a doubt the smart thing to do. Thank you for your input.

CAG, sorry to hear your concerns. Understand your confusion. The members on this forum who are sharing their thoughts are knowledgeable people. You will get good help here. A couple things to be aware of.
* Each of us are listening to your audio recording, using different feeds and speakers. What each of us hear will vary. My 72 yr old ears tell me that you have a internal dry start noise.(maybe) An exhaust leak will typically be a higher pitch pulsing noise. But that depends on what is leaking. Exhaust manifold or y pipe. It too, often goes away with warm up.
* You have less than 3000 miles and have not changed the factory oil. If your oil choices allow you, under warranty to use RL 5-30 and RP oil filter, as stated above, I would do that today. "Some" dealers will cooperate and put in what the customer provides as long as it is reasonable. If not, you have to make that call. Warranty compliance or what has been proven to be a solution.
* The key to working with a dealer/FCA is consistent and persistent s. No fit, rise above them because you know how. When the service advisor writes up your complaint/concern,,,do not sign it until you read it. If they do not enter your specific complaint and description as you stated, have them change it before you sign the work order. You may not need this paper trail, but if you do, you will be glad you have it. I followed this discipline with my RAM and FCA's review of the work orders caused them to replace the truck.
* Last thing. Our 5.7 and 6.4 engines are large engines that make some odd noises before they are broken in. My neighbor thought he had a cam lifter issue or severe exhaust leak in his 2019 1500 5.7 at 800 miles. It turned out to be one bad dry serpentine follower and belt.
Stay cool and we like updates that can help others.

Sounds very encouraging that "Some" dealers will cooperate with US on our choice of oil and filter. I will definitely read through everything and make sure everything I tell them is word for word.

All of you guys have been great help already, feels good here, I have my own website for video gamers and being friendly, understanding and most of all a die hard Ram Owner makes it all that much enjoyable to be a part of a community like this one. Great job to the owners of this website. Thank you!